- 41. Re: Maxton (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Tue, 03 May 2005 10:10:07 -0400
- ...and, you don't have to wash Maxton off when you return home!!!!! joe
- /html/land-speed/2005-05/msg00028.html (6,927 bytes)
- 42. Re: roll cage question #1 (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Fri, 08 Apr 2005 14:02:02 -0400
- Benn, A helmet strap is the keep your head inside of the rollcage. In a roadster or lakester style cage, the helmet can get between the bars, exposing the helmet(read, your head) to bumping. NHRA req
- /html/land-speed/2005-04/msg00108.html (7,668 bytes)
- 43. Re: Lincoln Precision TIG ? (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Sun, 27 Mar 2005 16:31:04 -0500
- I have a 275 Precision with the pulse option...best machine I have ever used...I can weld .025 alumimum easily. I have welded 1/2 inch alum with preheating. A good deal would be $2900 to $3100. It ha
- /html/land-speed/2005-03/msg00369.html (7,570 bytes)
- 44. Re: Monster Garage (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Tue, 15 Feb 2005 20:27:59 -0500
- Come to Delaware and you can play with my Wheel & Planishing hammer until your arm falls off!!!LOL joe
- /html/land-speed/2005-02/msg00292.html (8,452 bytes)
- 45. Re: Aluminum (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Tue, 11 Jan 2005 11:38:13 -0500
- You will find that 5052 is not very good for shaping. It cracks easily. I only use it for floors, etc., it bends in a brake very well. I use 3003 for all of my wheeling & planishing parts & bodies.
- /html/land-speed/2005-01/msg00235.html (6,983 bytes)
- 46. Non-LSR / Elva (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Wed, 01 Dec 2004 16:22:35 -0500
- I need a history lesson. I just got a '57 ? Elva in the shop to restore the chassis, suspension & body. It is a CanAM style rear engine car. molds were taken off of it and all of the rest of those bu
- /html/land-speed/2004-12/msg00047.html (7,706 bytes)
- 47. Non-LSR / Elva Info Needed (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 08:21:25 -0500
- I need a history lesson. I just got a '57 ? Elva in the shop to restore the chassis, suspension & body. It is a CanAM style rear engine car. bodied Elva, molds were taken off of it and all of the res
- /html/land-speed/2004-12/msg00050.html (6,867 bytes)
- 48. Re: Non-LSR / Elva (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 16:00:02 -0500
- I need to fix the alum. one...but thanks! joe
- /html/land-speed/2004-12/msg00065.html (7,539 bytes)
- 49. NonLSR-Elva (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Thu, 02 Dec 2004 16:20:38 -0500
- Thanks to all the replys on the Elva. I'll put a picture on Jon's site when I get the pieces together...still washing the parts with AlumPrep to remove all the grime. Kind of fun to think that how ma
- /html/land-speed/2004-12/msg00067.html (6,350 bytes)
- 50. Re: DIY oil tank (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Thu, 16 Dec 2004 18:34:07 -0500
- I would use 5052 or 3003 half hard alum. .080 or .090 material. Thicker is safer unless you are very careful how you mount the tank. The thinner material can chafe and/or vibrate and crack. This is
- /html/land-speed/2004-12/msg00288.html (7,443 bytes)
- 51. Re: Non LSR Info on Bending lexan (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Sat, 18 Dec 2004 11:10:20 -0500
- I ahve an industrial heat gun but you can use a hair dryer. Heat it and bend in a sheet metal brake or rig something up on the bench. Hold the lexan in place until it cools. joe
- /html/land-speed/2004-12/msg00311.html (7,335 bytes)
- 52. Jon Amo Picture (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Fri, 12 Nov 2004 09:37:12 -0500
- Got to the new issue of the AMA Motorcyclist mag...good article about Bonneville bikes. There is a good shot of Jon Amo dreaming about riding a 'liner!!!
- /html/land-speed/2004-11/msg00091.html (6,462 bytes)
- 53. Dishpan Hands (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Fri, 27 Aug 2004 09:38:20 -0400
- After washing off with soap & water, I use Mirachem 250 Rust & Scale is a Phosphoric Acid & is biodegradable . Just follow the directions. Salt X also has a "After" product that works well. Here is D
- /html/land-speed/2004-08/msg00298.html (6,885 bytes)
- 54. Update of Spal's Ford Ranger (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Mon, 01 Mar 2004 12:53:31 -0500
- I just got back from the Hot Rod & Restoration Show at The Convention Center in Indy. Spoke to the guys from Spal Tech. They have installed a diesel motor in their Ford Ranger pickup and are going af
- /html/land-speed/2004-03/msg00002.html (7,218 bytes)
- 55. Re: Update of Spal's Ford Ranger (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Tue, 02 Mar 2004 13:59:46 -0500
- They are using the new Ford, 4.6, I think!?! joe
- /html/land-speed/2004-03/msg00028.html (7,075 bytes)
- 56. Re: Bonneville Ranger (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 12:48:01 -0500
- This truck took my C/MMP record a couple of years ago. I beleive it put 2 poeple in the Two Club. Built by Spal Tech.( the radiator fan guys), it had a rented Roush Motor complete with a Roush tuner
- /html/land-speed/2004-02/msg00304.html (7,523 bytes)
- 57. Great Picture of Bob Higbee (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Sun, 22 Feb 2004 19:53:44 -0500
- Just got my 2004 ECTA rule book. There is a great picture of Bob Higbee trying to tighten John Beckect's seat belts at Speedweek 2002. Bob could bearly walk to the car, weakened from cancer but he wa
- /html/land-speed/2004-02/msg00319.html (6,547 bytes)
- 58. Re: TIG problems, part II (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Thu, 08 Jan 2004 09:07:37 -0500
- Are you using S70-6 rod? The dash 6 rod is high is manganese and silicon for welding dirty, rusty or poor metal. Gas should be 16/20 on the flow meter. Do you have the tungsten pointed??? What size
- /html/land-speed/2004-01/msg00132.html (7,794 bytes)
- 59. Re: Setting Pinion Angle Question (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 08:30:26 -0500
- Pinion angles for drag racing are approx. 7 degrees for leaf springs, 5 for ladderbars, 2 for 4-link. You won't have big slicks to distort the rear springs so just match your pinion angles and let t
- /html/land-speed/2003-12/msg00029.html (9,681 bytes)
- 60. Re: Setting Pinion Angle Question (score: 1)
- Author: Joe Timney <joetimney@dol.net>
- Date: Tue, 02 Dec 2003 15:51:38 -0500
- That's right...just get both equal. Yes, the pinion nose will rise when torque is applied so just dial it down a couple of degrees, something like the trans is 7 down and the rear is 5 up. A Compromi
- /html/land-speed/2003-12/msg00048.html (7,400 bytes)
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