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References: [ +subject:/^(?:^\s*(re|sv|fwd|fw)[\[\]\d]*[:>-]+\s*)*Mechanical\s+Advance\s*$/: 16 ]

Total 16 documents matching your query.

1. Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: Patrick McMullen <pmcmull@ibm.net>; Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 07:12:08 -0700; Should I be concerned about using different strengh springs to control my mechanical advance? I am using a combination of Triumph and Delco springs to get my current ignition curve. Will this cause r; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00136.html (7,710 bytes)
2. Re: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: "R. John Lye" <rjl6n@virginia.edu>; Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 08:14:43 -0400; Well, actually, I'm no longer using springs at all - I just turn a dial to set my advance curve (I've got an Electromotive distributorless ignition). I don't think you need to worry; as I recall, the; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00138.html (7,670 bytes)
3. Re: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: Bob Lang <LANG@ISIS.MIT.EDU>; Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 12:34:52 -0400 (EDT); To echo John's reply - no. The different springs allow for different "slopes" of the advance curve.. a weak spring will give you a little more advance at the lower end and a stiff one will give a fla; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00140.html (11,537 bytes)
4. RE: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>; Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 10:07:11 -0700; I really like the dual point mallory distributor that numerous sources provide for TR's. It's rock-solid compared to a Lucas, no matter what you do to the Lucas bushings. I presume one is available f; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00141.html (8,280 bytes)
5. RE: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: Alexander Joseph H <AlexanderJosephH@Waterloo.deere.com>; Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 12:03:38 -0500; a friend of mine bought an old distributor machine for $25 and it has been used to our great advantage...although not by me. I really like the dual point mallory distributor that numerous sources pro; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00142.html (8,652 bytes)
6. RE: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: "R.M. Bownes III" <bownes@emi.com>; Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 13:40:32 -0400; crowd. I too have one of the Electromotive's. Very nice. Total cost, about $400. Very easy to install, very easy to set up (if you have John handy to make things work!) I built a bracket for the pic; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00143.html (8,985 bytes)
7. RE: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: "R. John Lye" <rjl6n@virginia.edu>; Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 14:19:49 -0400; Yeah, I think that I'll eventually have one in the street GT-6. John Lye rjl6n@Virginia.edu; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00144.html (8,053 bytes)
8. RE: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: cak@dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev); Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 11:19:19 -0700; If anyone finds a used distributor machine wanting a new home, please point it my way.; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00145.html (7,849 bytes)
9. Re: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: Mark J Bradakis <mjb@cs.utah.edu>; Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 12:22:39 -0600 (MDT); One possible igniton box to consider is the Crane HI-6. I have one on Killer, it works pretty well. It did fail once, but that was an error on the part of the installer. The box gives a good spark, a; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00146.html (8,268 bytes)
10. RE: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: cak@dimebank.com (Chris Kantarjiev); Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 11:22:33 -0700; Bob's comment about rev limiter modules for the MSD box is one of the big reasons I recommend the Crane HI-6 instead. Not to mention that our own mjb sells them at a decent price through the Fat Chan; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00147.html (8,150 bytes)
11. Re: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: "Bob Kramer" <rgk@flash.net>; Date: Mon, 19 Oct 1998 19:19:53 -0600; I inherited a Mallory Dual Point in my TR3A that has been nothing but trouble. Whoever installed it in the car in the first place located the # 1 terminal 90 degrees out (or some approximation there-; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00158.html (9,710 bytes)
12. RE: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>; Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 12:49:53 -0700; I don't understand how you could get one 90 degrees out, but 180 is easy to fix. The mallory comes pre-drilled for the driving dog, which is offset to one side to preclude putting the distributor in; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00164.html (10,824 bytes)
13. RE: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: "R. John Lye" <rjl6n@virginia.edu>; Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 16:02:05 -0400; Maybe they do now - but when I bought the one that's in my TR-3A about 10 years ago, I had to drill it myself. It was definitely not drilled by Mallory. later, John Lye rjl6n@Virginia.edu; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00167.html (7,992 bytes)
14. RE: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: Bill Babcock <BillB@bnj.com>; Date: Tue, 20 Oct 1998 15:12:36 -0700; Now that I think about it, maybe I did drill the hole. There are instructions in the kit that tell where to point the rotor. That wouldn't make sense unless you needed to drill. easy Maybe they do no; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00168.html (8,278 bytes)
15. Re: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: Patrick McMullen <pmcmull@ibm.net>; Date: Wed, 21 Oct 1998 17:23:40 -0700; I ask one question and go away for two days...50 plus emails. First of all you don't need a distributor machine to curve your ignitions. I bought a Dial-back-to-Zero timing light from Jacobs. Most e; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00180.html (8,213 bytes)
16. Re: Mechanical Advance (score: 1): Author: Malaboge@aol.com; Date: Sun, 25 Oct 1998 11:52:18 EST; The fact that the driving dog doesn't line up where you want it is basically irrelevant. You can position the distributor wherever you want it to be throughout a 360 degree parameter by moving the ge; /html/fot/1998-10/msg00207.html (9,198 bytes)

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