Hi everyone, I've been in lurk mode for a while now. I think it's mainly because I haven't been able to drive my roadster ever since I took out the old engine a few months back. I'm writing now becau
I think Tom has a tech tip posted about this, but here is a short checklist. Squirt a bit of oil in each cylinder through the plug holes. Leave the plugs out. Double-check all the fasteners, then all
I had some similar questions about a long dormant moter awhile ago... <<Make a oil pump driver for your drill and spin up the oil pressure. >> That's the part that has me scratching my head, what wou
<< Hi Russell, What is an oil pump driver? Larry in Calgary. Just a rod with one end ground flat to fit in the slot that drives the oil pump. You remove the distributor and the shaft that drives both
You can make one out of a piece of steel rod that has the end ground to match the spindle gear that mates to the camshaft/jackshaft. You don't want the gear on it, so a round shaft is all that you re
<< That's the part that has me scratching my head, what would this driver look like? How do you know (by feel) you've engaged the oil pump? Marc t. It's just a piece of round steel rod with one end g
<< I figured that was the purpose, but, I thought the "jack shaft" rotated the distributor shaft and oil pump. If yes, would its drive gear not be in the way of any drill and home made rod setup? I r
Another approach: with the plugs out and the valve cover off, squirt a little oil in the cylinders and on top of valve assemblies. Then just spin the motor with the starter until you get a good oil p
Its not really feasable on the L series engines to prime them as you would have to remove the oilpump to take the distributor/oilpump drive shaft out, it will only come out the bottom, and you cant s