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41. Re: Performance with Pertronics (was re: dwell adjustment) (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 13:03:11 -0400; If you have no lateral movement, you have no issue at all and it should work great. The pertronics is more forgiving than points with a slightly worn dist, but it can't correct for a really worn out; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00482.html (8,472 bytes)
42. Re: Turbo (not Flame) War (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 19:57:47 -0400; Well clearly we are both right about this one, all the gizmos allow oems to meet emissions AND allow unprecedented power levels with reliability. For all their electronics and complexity the VTECS,SR; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00502.html (8,120 bytes)
43. Re: Turbo (Flame) War (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Sun, 14 May 2000 20:01:08 -0400; I may be wrong, but it could be one of those, "If you have to ask, you can't afford it" situations! Jim; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00503.html (7,803 bytes)
44. Re: Turbo R16 (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Wed, 17 May 2000 16:32:03 -0400; With the oem 2L pistons and a new r16 head, your compression would have been right around 7.5:1. That and the water probably probably helped it survive. No one asked, but if I were going to do a turb; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00604.html (7,532 bytes)
45. Re: 1600 for sale in LA (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 09:17:53 -0400; You are now one of "us". The few, the proud, the CHRONICALLY infected with roadsteritis. The ability to reason is gone. There is little chance of recovery when it advances to this stage. Enjoy your r; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00651.html (7,287 bytes)
46. Re: Aftermarket Watertemp gauge (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 17:08:58 -0400; If you are trying to redeem yourself, this is a good start. A good temp gauge is a REALLY good idea. Get a Stewart Warner dial type mechanical gauge. A voltmeter or oil pressure gauge is nice too. Ji; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00679.html (8,077 bytes)
47. Re: Aftermarket Watertemp gauge (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Fri, 19 May 2000 20:35:25 -0400; They work REALLY well. They are incredibly consistent, are trouble free, and work for years. You can watch your thermostat open and close on one. It's really nice to have that kind of assurance. Ther; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00695.html (7,788 bytes)
48. Re: 510 rear end, hmmmmmm (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Sat, 20 May 2000 21:34:11 -0400; I have heard the wag rears are a direct fit, but I haven't ever swapped one myself so I can't say for sure. I have also heard that with the truck rears you have to swap the side gears that the axles; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00717.html (8,417 bytes)
49. Re: 510 rear end, hmmmmmm (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 21:11:24 -0400; I was referring to just the chunk itself, not to the whole axle assembly. Hope this helps, Jim; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00786.html (9,318 bytes)
50. Re: Back on the road again!! [distributor timing] (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Mon, 22 May 2000 23:03:09 -0400; Um, who suggested that you do that? With a perfect 2l head (never cut) and not correcting for material you may have removed from the head to clear the pistons, a quick calculation indicates about 12:; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00792.html (9,060 bytes)
51. Re: U20 Compression (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 18:44:30 -0400; For a real competition engine, any of the OE cast pistons are totally unacceptable. Decking the block with flat tops doesn't help much, if you run at the piston at zero deck height that only allows a; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00829.html (9,351 bytes)
52. Re: U20 Compression (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 22:49:39 -0400; Hi Kyle, 1) Well, the easiest way is with a thicker headgasket. I am told they exist in copper, (Was it Stan maybe?) I have never tried one, and frankly would be sort of leery about it. Maybe Stan ca; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00844.html (9,890 bytes)
53. Re: U20 Compression (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Tue, 23 May 2000 23:11:09 -0400; The connecting rods are quite good, but they are heavy. By the time you machine them into a racing rod, you have spent about half the cost of a Carrillo and they still weigh a hell of alot more. For; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00846.html (8,597 bytes)
54. Re: Solex Update (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 08:29:39 -0400; Don't condemn the whole race because of one bad apple. If you have a specific solex problem, it doesn't mean solexes are bad in general. In condition and tune, they are excellent and stay that way a; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00967.html (8,204 bytes)
55. Re: Solex Update (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 08:32:17 -0400; I have also heard that the earlier carbs are difficult to get parts eh, that would be definitely, as in back to spelling class Jim; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg00968.html (7,120 bytes)
56. Re: Solex carbs (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Fri, 26 May 2000 23:30:58 -0400; Over many years, but I don't remember the exact years. There were the old style OE's sold into the 70's (at least), then the A-11's(sold through NISMO into the 90's), and at least two "late" versions; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg01023.html (7,426 bytes)
57. Re: Cracked Pin Bushings (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Tue, 30 May 2000 00:18:16 -0400; You think the bushing itself is cracked? Not the rod? The bushing material is so soft, I don't know how you would crack it. Are you sure it isn't a seam? Pin bushings (for roadsters) exist that are s; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg01085.html (7,367 bytes)
58. Re: Head and Brake questions (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 08:07:56 -0400; That head would work fine with flattops, but I am sure it would have contact with oem 1600 pistons. Jim; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg01142.html (7,201 bytes)
59. Re: Double headgasket U20 (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 14:33:58 -0400; Not a good idea, it will typically leak somewhere, or you end up passing the half ass mess on to the next owner (labeling you a "P.O"). You MAY get away with it, but it isn't the right way to correct; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg01165.html (7,470 bytes)
60. Re: U20 timing cover stud removal (score: 1): Author: Jim Tyler <toplessdatsun@ga.prestige.net>; Date: Wed, 31 May 2000 15:33:18 -0400; The lower 10mm (and the upper right 8mm) are both studs that go through the water pump and front cover to the block. They are usually completely rusted into the block and an attempt to remove them ca; /html/datsun-roadsters/2000-05/msg01171.html (7,566 bytes)

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