- 1. [6pack] Head studs (score: 1)
- Author: "John North" <johncnorth@gmail.com>
- Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 13:16:09 -0500
- Should I replace the head studs or re-use the old ones? They look to be in good shape and the new ones are like $10 each, 14 needed. Seems like no-one stocks the two longer ones anymore either. I did
- /html/6pack/2007-11/msg00225.html (6,835 bytes)
- 2. RE: [6pack] Head studs (score: 1)
- Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
- Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 10:59:58 -0800
- They are high tensile steel. If you want an economical replacement (but non-stock) then socket headed cap screws with the black oxide finish will work just fine, and cost about $1.25 each at your lo
- /html/6pack/2007-11/msg00229.html (8,779 bytes)
- 3. Re: [6pack] Head studs (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Mon, 26 Nov 2007 22:57:58 -0800
- John--OK, it's OK to save $140. The whole trick in re-using key bolts and studs is based on knowing that they weren't previously stretched beyond their yield strength. If they haven't been tightened
- /html/6pack/2007-11/msg00244.html (7,568 bytes)
- 4. [6pack] Head studs (score: 1)
- Author: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster@hp.com>
- Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 02:10:57 +0000
- Hi fellow 6packers. I wonder, do head studs need to be torqued to a specific lb/ft into the block before installing the head or do they need to be merely tightened until all of the thread has been co
- /html/6pack/2008-04/msg00111.html (6,958 bytes)
- 5. Re: [6pack] Head studs (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Sun, 13 Apr 2008 22:59:33 -0700
- Stan--I never read this from any credible source (or any source, for that matter) but here's my thoughts: To aid in their (eventual) removal, I put a dab of Never-Seize on the first couple of the stu
- /html/6pack/2008-04/msg00114.html (7,469 bytes)
- 6. Re: [6pack] Head studs (score: 1)
- Author: "Foster, Stan" <stan.foster@hp.com>
- Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:41:53 +0000
- Thanks Dick, I assume you install the head in between these two steps.. I put a dab of Never-Seize on the first couple of the stud threads, screw them into the block more or less finger tight. I then
- /html/6pack/2008-04/msg00116.html (8,263 bytes)
- 7. Re: [6pack] Head studs (score: 1)
- Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>
- Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 07:16:51 -0700
- Studs are installed finger tight only. Put the head on, then the nut and torque as specified in Bentley. The big advantage of studs is that the threads in the block are preserved because there is no
- /html/6pack/2008-04/msg00118.html (8,337 bytes)
- 8. Re: [6pack] Head studs (score: 1)
- Author: tr6taylor@webtv.net (Sally or Dick Taylor)
- Date: Mon, 14 Apr 2008 11:51:54 -0700
- Stan--If the engine is out of the car, I install all or most of the studs first, drop in the gasket, then set the head into place. If the engine is in place, I install only the four corner studs to p
- /html/6pack/2008-04/msg00129.html (7,756 bytes)
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