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References: [ +from:vance.navarrette@intel.com: 1701 ]

Total 1701 documents matching your query.

141. It's baaa-aaack! (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Wed, 7 Sep 2005 10:23:41 -0700; Well, my miss is back, after about 2 days of trouble free driving. (Whimper, Whimper!) It would seem that fresh plugs only masked my problem. #@$#%#@$$!!!! It started when I pulled out of the drive; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00100.html (8,151 bytes)
142. RE: Welding clutch fork to cross shaft TR6 TR250 (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Thu, 8 Sep 2005 08:05:14 -0700; My DPO welded the folk to the cross shaft. The welds were so crappy that they eventually broke, allowing the fork to move on the cross shaft. The movement was limited, so the clutch still worked som; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00125.html (8,556 bytes)
143. RE: Emission Control Information (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 11:10:06 -0700; A heat gun set to low heat will take out most (all?) of the wrinkles. The factory used a "perforated" emissions sticker to solve this problem. The repops are not perforated, so I don't know that you; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00353.html (7,740 bytes)
144. RE: Foggy gauges (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 11:14:41 -0700; There are two sets of seals. The first is between the bezel and the instrument. These dry out. To replace these you must remove the bezel and glass (twist and lift, as I recall). There are no new se; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00354.html (8,304 bytes)
145. RE: Not quite overheating, but... (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 11:18:45 -0700; What is your thermostat set to? Does the fan come on while the car is idling? Is your fan shroud installed? Are you certain that the fan is polarized correctly (is the fan rotating in the proper dire; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00355.html (8,088 bytes)
146. RE: A little help?? (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 11:27:47 -0700; I am going to take exception to the Haynes manual and say that the there SHOULD be a spark when you open the points, assuming that the rest of the ignition system is in the correct configuration. Th; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00356.html (9,375 bytes)
147. RE: Recovering Dash/radio support frame TR250/TR6 (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Sun, 25 Sep 2005 11:34:04 -0700; You apply the contact cement to both surfaces. Then you cut up a trash can liner, and apply it in pieces to the cover so that the contact cement is sticking to the trash can liner, and you can remov; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00357.html (8,634 bytes)
148. RE: DOOR crash pads (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Mon, 26 Sep 2005 12:00:07 -0700; I am unimpressed with the 3M spray adhesive. It isn't very sticky, and it seems to let go after some time has elapsed so I have stopped using it. Too many compromises to make it sprayable, IMHO. Use; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00373.html (7,463 bytes)
149. RE: hood latch (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 07:28:24 -0700; When installing a new hood latch, the safety catch will be too far forward and will bend the first time the hood is closed. There is a metal tab on the new latch that acts as a forward stop for the; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00390.html (7,953 bytes)
150. RE: Washer Fluid Bottle Bracket... (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 07:34:13 -0700; It is canvas reinforced rubber. You can buy a complete new bracket with strap from Vicky Brit. I don't know where you can get canvas reinforced rubber to replace just the strap. Another option is to; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00391.html (8,157 bytes)
151. Differential Pinion Oil Seal removal (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 07:38:18 -0700; A seal puller will pop that baby out in 10 seconds. They are $5 and available at any good auto parts store. They look a bit like a claw hammer with a single claw on each end of the head. You hook th; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00392.html (8,588 bytes)
152. RE: Bearing End Float (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Tue, 27 Sep 2005 10:38:17 -0700; If memory serves, the front axle stubs are UNF 20 threads per inch, which means that one full turn on the castle nut moves 0.050". You could tighten finger tight, and back off say, one half of one f; /html/6pack/2005-09/msg00396.html (7,662 bytes)
153. RE: rear light housings / chrome paint (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 07:58:22 -0700; I had a similar experience, with a different root cause. The bulb in question is a dual filament bulb, and the socket has two connections instead of one. If you get the two wires swapped to the sock; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00026.html (9,725 bytes)
154. RE: Radio (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Tue, 2 Aug 2005 10:50:07 -0700; I have an original Triumph, working, pushbutton AM/FM mono radio with faceplate (albeit with non-original knobs). It is a British Leyland north America radio, made for Triumph by audio Vox. It fits; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00031.html (9,428 bytes)
155. Triumph Radios (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 08:21:29 -0700; Hey Folks: Someone was asking about OEM radios. There is one on eBay, starting at $15. It is a Bendix, comes with knobs but no faceplate. AM/FM complete with the BL "whirling sphincter" logo. Auction; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00051.html (6,909 bytes)
156. Re: Triumph Radios (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 11:51:02 -0700; I like the "tint knob" comment. LOL As for the junk yards, perhaps people will have better luck than I did. I tried going that route, and there are very few original radios left in old TRs. They hav; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00053.html (8,234 bytes)
157. TR6 mufflers (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Thu, 4 Aug 2005 12:08:37 -0700; A question for all of you out there. Has anyone found a "look alike" TR6 muffler that flows worth a rip? I was chasing an exhaust leak on my new exhaust system, and out of morbid curiosity I looked; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00054.html (8,402 bytes)
158. RE: Line borring for cam bearings (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2005 08:12:01 -0700; According to the APT web page, 1.969" is the diameter needed to fit the bearings. Vance I know it's stupid to get the work done without the actual bearings in hand. I'll ask anyways.... Anyone have; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00064.html (7,175 bytes)
159. RE: PDWA warning switch leak (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Fri, 5 Aug 2005 11:20:55 -0700; There is an o-ring on each end of the PDWA piston that is supposed to prevent brake fluid from leaking into the center of the PDWA assembly. The warning switch should never see any brake fluid, so i; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00068.html (8,859 bytes)
160. RE: Bleeding clutch slave (score: 1): Author: "Navarrette, Vance" <vance.navarrette@intel.com>; Date: Sun, 7 Aug 2005 10:36:35 -0700; You can bleed it before hand if you attach it to the mounting bracket before you bleed it. The mounting bracket can be attached to the engine after it is in. It is not a simple proposition, however.; /html/6pack/2005-08/msg00098.html (7,860 bytes)

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