My Yenko Stinger has 4 whl Drums. It took a long time with some
pretty experienced help to get them "right". Actually, "more right". The
balance is still not proper. However, when adjusted properly with
everything 'true', the car stops very well. Of course, with the weight of
four Asian elephants on the rear wheels, the weight transfer in heavy
braking is a "bit" different than those of you with front engines <VBG>.
The early Corvettes-those with Drum brakes - are more than an armful
to drive; hvy in F with marginal drums (width) and suspension. Others use
more spectacular words....
Issue. The supply of linings for drum shoes is getting harder and
harder to find. Material, the glue is part of the issue, the cost is
another for NOS parts if they can be found. Aluminum drums are getting
scarce, too. A time may come when the quality of the linings is so bad, at
least for my heavy car, it won't be fun. I can tell you that after
struggling with the brakes for a year, it wasn't fun.
Drum Advice: Everything must be true; hub, drum, etc. Springs and
fittings must not bind. Wheel cylinders have to be right. Suspension incl.
sway bars components MUST be tight. Drums must be turned properly; lightly
and gently...concentric with the hub. Seems drums amplify problems where
disks don't (as much).
Chuck Sadek
YS73
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Reynolds [SMTP:grant62@starpower.net]
> Sent: Thursday, November 29, 2001 4:44 PM
> To: Mark Palmer; brian@uunet.ca; WSpohn4@aol.com
> Cc: vintage-race@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: Disc brakes
>
> I race on drum brakes, and can outbrake most of you with discs...no talent
> on my part, it's an 850 pound Formula Vee with 1936-designed single
> leading
> shoe brakes. They do have to be adjusted constantly. However, linings have
> improved a great, great deal since 1960! Drums with kevlar or better
> linings
> seem to work well and last a very long time. Discs are probably better but
> I
> wonder if properly set up drums are really a safety problem?
> Grant Reynolds
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