First thing is to remember that a major byproduct of kerosene heater
combustion is water - rather a lot of condensation, as I learned to my
expensive chagrin one winter! I'd try one of those 30 watt, 240 volt
heaters, and wrapping the walls with vapour barrier to contain the air
movement. Brute force as compared to elegance. Of course, what I'd really
do is find a fiberglass guy and get him to do the work if I was as rich as
you! I have a 4500 watt generator if you find you need one. Also, since
my main shop is going to be a "dirty" shop this winter (restoring a Mini
Woodywagon, and doing some cabinetry is in the plan) you could make a trek
out and use it if you wanted - 65 deg is not a problem.
Off the wall - One winter when I needed a warm workshop I put an electric
space heater in my trailer and turned it into quite an acceptable workspace
- could that be an option for you?
Brian
At 09:55 PM 09/05/2000 -0400, Derek Harling wrote:
>I need to do some serious race car fiberglass work but since my "shop"
>(garage) is integral with the house the smell and dust would be totally
>unacceptable.
>
>To my surprise the local "Stor-It" place does not frown on such work in
>any of their units - but of course there is no heat, light, power, water
>etc and no insulation - I'm talking Detroit area so winters are quite
>cold. I can solve the heat and light with a portable kerosene heater and
>a sizable generator I guess but what about insulation? Existing walls
>and roof are just galvanized steel paneling. Does the list recommend I
>try to install some temporary insulation or what? If so how? I'm
>thinking not only off getting working temperature up to 65F for the
>actual lay-up process but of keeping it at least 55F for the full resin
>cure.
>
>Help please.
>
>Derek
Brian Evans
Director, Strategic Accounts
UUNET, A WorldCom Company
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