Ryan Border wrote:
>
> Apologies if this goes out twice... I think my first attempt yesterday failed.
> ----------------------------------------------------
> Hello,
> Thought this would be a good place to ask some vintage racing questions.
> I've decided that I want to give this vintage racing thing a try.
> I've been an old car buff for a quite a while, and have really enjoyed
> watching vintage races- and I think it's time to do a little more than
> spectate. My wife is equally enthused about giving this a go. How
> serious are we?... last night I sold one of my pride and joys- putting
> cash in hand to start shopping for a race car.
>
> Right now we're thinking that a frog(bug)-eye sprite might be the perfect
> car to get started with. Just fast enough to be fun, easy to work on, easy
> to get parts for, and (as far as vintage race cars go) very cheap. I'm
> hoping that it will be possible to get/build a car which can do vintage
> racing, club (scca) racing, and be (occasionally) streetable. Here where
> I'm at pre-1960 cars are smog-exempt, and so, with streeting the car
> now and then desireable, a pre 1960 MK1 sprite is what I've got my eyes
> open for now.
If your wife is interested you are very fortunate. I race a 59 sprite in
HSR. The cars are easy to set up and can be quite fast. HSR allows us to
run 1275 cc engines in the 59, but other organizations will not. HSR
does not require a "race history". It is my understanding that a race
histroy is not required by all of the organizations if the car was made
before a certain year. You should probably give a call to the
organization(s) with which you plan to race and obtain their policy.
>
> I've rebuilt a few old cars, including a 1960 Cadillac and
> a 1959 Jaguar (http://www.jag-lovers.org/saloons/ryan), and so the
> mechanical side of things doesn't scare me at all. After cutting my
> British car teeth on a Jag, it's been quite a surprise to
> see how inexpensively one can find Sprite parts.
>
> OK- Here's a few questions off the top of my head:
> 1) It's my understanding that for some (all?) vintage racing associations,
> that your car must have a (scca?) log-book showing that it has a
> racing history. What (typically) needs to be in the log-book for
> a car to qualify? ie: when car shopping what do I need to be checking
> for in its log-book (obviously vin numbers must match, etc.)
> 2) I assume that "period" modifications are mostly allowable. What about
> things like putting disk brakes on a Sprite. Allowable because old
> racers used to do it? Allowable only if I use period (not 4 piston
> Wilwood calipers) parts?
HSR allows disc brakes on the bug eye. If you show up with a set of
NASCAR 4 pot wildwoods, sombody may say something, especially if you are
fast. Anyway, the standard disc brakes are quite adequate with carbon
metallic pads. The idea is to stay on the gas and off the brakes. The
sprites are easy to drive and can be quite fast, for the money. They
often outrun "faster" and much more expensive cars.
> 3) Are safety mods (for instance dual master cylinders) typically exempt/
> encouraged? What about something like a modern roll-bar/harness system.
Again, HSR allows the dual brake cylinders and requires a 5 point
harness.
> 4) If you stay within the specified tire size restrictions, are there
> typically other tire limits (do you need to run a vintage profile,
> tread, and compound)
Tires can cause a major argument, even in HSR. They must be DOT and have
tread. The Hoosier 60 series TD is OK, but the Hoosier racing radial
(semi slick) is a no-no.
>
> 5) Is it completely unreasonable to think that I could build a car which
> would be eligible for vintage events, but still be relatively competitive
> in the (less-restrictive) scca club events?
No it is not unreasonable. The fastest sprite in HSR also runs in SVRA,
which is much more strict. I beleive he replaces his hood and trunk
before running SVRA- they require metal. I have competed in HSR and in
SCCA SOLO I events and was competive. However you will not be able to be
competive in the SCCA Production events- those cars are really baby
Trans Am Cars.
>
> 6) What about driver licensing. What (roughly) is the procedure I'll
> need to go through to be eligible to start racing?
Most require a school or two. They will also recognize commercial
schools such as Skip Barber or Road Atlanta.
>
> As you can see, I have a lot of things to learn. Right now I'm just
> trying to gather enough info so that I can start shopping for the right
> car. It's my intention, for now, to try and get a car that will be
> eligible for the most events... which I think means conforming to the
> rules for the 'strictest' vintage racing association.
If you are going to race a bugeye, you will be required to run a 948 cc
motor in most classes. This motor is not terribly dependable, especially
when pushed. The 1275 is much easier to prepare and easier to drive
fast. You can run the later square back with a 1275 in most orgaizations
and the bodies are much cheaper. However do not make the mistake of
purchsing a relatively recent SCCA production racer with fender flares
and coil over suspension and attempt to do vintage. This is normally a
no-no and can be more expensive to correct than starting with a new car.
Check with the organization(s) and the peopole currently racing in the
organization, best of luck.
If you want a sesrious motor you should probably contact Dave Tabor,
Huffaker, Jon Stamps or Bob Wagner.
>
> aTdHvAaNnKcSe for any info-
> Ryan (rborder@cup.hp.com)
Best of Luck
Doug Wilson
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