Steve-
My worries were due to the fact I had not heat treated them. I did the
job on advice and instructions from my local race car building guru
(Bill Schlossnagel), who has done many without the additional step, and
none of them have broken. The trick is to heat and bend VERY carefully
and slowly, heat only once, i.e. not cooling and reheating (get it right
the first time!), and using the least heat possible.
-Skip
"Hill, Stephen M EDUC:EX" wrote:
>
> Thanks Skip. Useful information on the GT6 arms. If I can't find TR4 arms,
> heating my arms or the GT6 arms is definitely an option. It seems
> heat-treating should follow the heating and bending. This may not be a
> service available around where I live. I would guess that heat treating
> could consist of gently heating the whole arm under a dull red and then
> burying it in dry sand for several hours . I don't think one needs to
> restore temper, just relieve internal stresses, also known as normalizing.
> And if you didn't do any of this on your arms, I didn't even bring up the
> topic and you can go back to forgetting about them :)
>
> Stephen
>
> > ----------
> > From: Skip Gurnee[SMTP:skip47@home.com]
> > Sent: Tuesday, June 20, 2000 6:20 PM
> > To: Hill, Stephen M EDUC:EX
> > Cc: 'TVR mailing list'; 'mtooze@tan.unl.edu'
> > Subject: Re: Steering Arms
> >
> > Steve-
> > I just realized what caused my steering rack arms to angle rearward when
> > the rack was attached at the front holes in the frame: I'm using shorter
> > steering arms from a GT6. They give quicker steering. They also don't
> > fit in STOCK form, they must be heated and bent to clear the brake
> > disc. I worried about the heating for 5 or 6 years, but no cracks or
> > failures have let me forget them (and they have seen some extreme
> > use!). The moral of the story is that there are alternatives out there.
> > You can find them on all sorts of cars, including Lotus, so you need not
> > think only TR3-4-6 when you're making a change.
> > Best,
> > Skip G.
> >
> > "Hill, Stephen M EDUC:EX" wrote:
> > >
> > > Hi Marcus. I was looking at your webpage on the TVR steering components
> > (see
> > > below) and wondered about the steering arms you were referring to. Are
> > the
> > > shallow droop TR4 arms early or late? Locally, I have found a source of
> > TR3
> > > steering arms. Would they be the same as the shallow droop ones?
> > >
> > > Stephen
> > >
> > > 1. The stock 2500m suffers from terrible bump steer. Bump steer is a
> > change
> > > in the direction that the wheel is pointing (with NO input from the
> > steering
> > > wheel) during suspension travel. The main cause of the bump steer is the
> > > stock TR6 steering arms. They cause a steep angle between the steering
> > rack
> > > and the tie rod end,. To cure, use the 'shallow droop' TR4 steering arms
> > > (not all TR4 arms are alike). It is likely that TVR designed the
> > suspension
> > > geometry with the TR4 part in mind, then some clever soul changed to TR6
> > > parts without consulting anybody...
> >
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