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Re: steering rack swap

To: G_Ivory@beutel-can.com, tvr@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: steering rack swap
From: Malaboge@aol.com
Date: Tue, 9 Feb 1999 19:32:33 EST
In a message dated 2/8/99 12:06:32 PM Pacific Standard Time, G_Ivory@beutel-
can.com writes:

<< Can anyone confirm that the Spitfire steering rack and TR6 rack are
 interchangeable? Looking to speed up the steering [from 3.4 turns to 2.7] on
 two M Series cars, and have been told the Spit rack is a straight swap. Are
 the tube diameters the same? How is the Spit rack for durability?
 Gavin Ivory
 Toronto
  >>

Fellow "Rack"eteers-

Wish I had more experience on the M cars, but for what it is worth, I have put
racks from both TR6's and Spits into earlier TVR's. Supposedly the TVR racks
are different, but how I'm not sure. I have found that on some of the 2500's
the rack is assembled in such a manner that it really does not want to be
taken apart. Those racks tend to accumulate in the shop and whatever TR rack
lying around goes in. I have had no problems with fit, bolts right in. Some of
the MKIII's I have seen have extenders on the tie rods and you can either
change them over to the new rack or put the complete TR assy in (if you get
the tie rods with it of course). 
If you are working on an M car, you will have to keep the same steering arms,
as the Spit arms do not fit the TR6 upright, but on the earlier cars you can
use the shorter arms. Yes, they must be bent to clear the brake rotor. As long
as you are bending them, you might as well spend a little time working out
your bump steer and bend the arms to accommodate that as well. Makes the car
MUCH nicer to drive. I have the world's worst luck, so have always reheat
treated the arms, but hey, maybe you're luckier than me.
Before you put the rack in, dissasemble it, clean it thourougly, check the
clearance on the offside bush, grease it well and reassemble. The bronze bush
is usually shot as it takes a lot of wear. Just a "little" freeplay is too
much. (Test it dry and clean.)
You will have to cut and chisel the old bush out (not really that difficult
just take it slow with the hack saw blade or dremel or whatever.) Cut a slot
in the bush and chisel up an end to grab with a pliers and pull. Installation
consists of driving in a new bush (careful not to bend the end of the bushing
- if the rod is tight in the bush afterwards, you probably bent the end of the
bush and will need to sand\file it back down even.)

Rack 'em up...
      Nick in Nor Cal

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