Re: [TR] TR3A overdrive adjustment lever removal

[Art McEwen <artwmcewen@gmail.com>]

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Thanks Edward.  I thought about drilling but didn't figure I could get my
drill close enough without the chuck fouling on the case.

I'm assuming I'm punching the narrow end (it's concave into the arm not
standing proud).

Art

On Thu, Jan 20, 2022 at 3:09 PM EDWARD WOODS <fogbro1@comcast.net> wrote:

> Well Art, it=E2=80=99s a tapered pin, which you may or may not have disco=
vered.
> It=E2=80=99ll only come out in one direction. It=E2=80=99s not always bee=
n easy, but, with
> one exception where I bent the shaft, I=E2=80=99ve always been able to ex=
tract
> them. Or drill them. It=E2=80=99s 1/8=E2=80=9D in diameter, by the way. Y=
ou can use a roll
> pin to replace the original.
>
> Ed
>
> On 01/20/2022 2:44 PM Art McEwen <artwmcewen@gmail.com> wrote:
>
>
> So I=E2=80=99m midway through an overdrive rebuild and the actuation shaf=
t has an
> o ring on either end that I want to replace. But I can=E2=80=99t get the =
pin
> holding the adjustment arm (opposite side of case from solenoid) to budge=
.
> I=E2=80=99ve broken 2 punches so far and the case is in the way of a dril=
l. I guess
> I don=E2=80=99t HAVE to renew it but it seems a shame to leave a 40+ year=
 old oring
> to weep after going through this work.
>
> Ideas?
>
> Art.
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Thanks Edward.=C2=A0 I thought about drilling but did=
n&#39;t figure I could get my drill close enough without the chuck fouling =
on the case.</div><div><br></div><div>I&#39;m assuming I&#39;m punching the=
 narrow end (it&#39;s concave into the arm not standing proud).</div><div><=
br></div><div>Art<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D=
"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Thu, Jan 20, 2022 at 3:09 PM EDWARD WOODS &lt=
;<a href=3D"mailto:fogbro1@comcast.net";>fogbro1@comcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<=
br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8e=
x;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><u></u>

 =20
  =20
=20
 <div>
  <div>
   Well Art, it=E2=80=99s a tapered pin, which you may or may not have disc=
overed. It=E2=80=99ll only come out in one direction. It=E2=80=99s not alwa=
ys been easy, but, with one exception where I bent the shaft, I=E2=80=99ve =
always been able to extract them. Or drill them. It=E2=80=99s 1/8=E2=80=9D =
in diameter, by the way. You can use a roll pin to replace the original.
  </div>
  <div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51,51,51)">
   <br>
  </div>
  <div style=3D"font-size:12pt;font-family:helvetica,arial,sans-serif;color=
:rgb(51,51,51)">
   Ed
  </div>
  <blockquote type=3D"cite">
   <div>
    On 01/20/2022 2:44 PM Art McEwen &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:artwmcewen@gmail=
.com" target=3D"_blank">artwmcewen@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:
   </div>
   <div>
    <br>
   </div>
   <div>
    <br>
   </div>
   <div>
    So I=E2=80=99m midway through an overdrive rebuild and the actuation sh=
aft has an o ring on either end that I want to replace. But I can=E2=80=99t=
 get the pin holding the adjustment arm (opposite side of case from solenoi=
d) to budge. I=E2=80=99ve broken 2 punches so far and the case is in the wa=
y of a drill. I guess I don=E2=80=99t HAVE to renew it but it seems a shame=
 to leave a 40+ year old oring to weep after going through this work.
   </div>
   <div>
    <br>
   </div>
   <div>
    Ideas?
   </div>
   <div>
    <br>
   </div>
   <div>
    Art.
   </div>
   <div>
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   </div>
  </blockquote>
 </div>

</blockquote></div>

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