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Canted studs On Stag too. Regarding coiled inserts. Time Serts are good.
Not cheap though.
Sujit
On Mon, Dec 13, 2021, 6:42 AM David P <frogeye@porterscustom.com> wrote:
> ... my recollection is waning, but did not the TR7 block have purposely
> canted head studs that had to be removed/inserted individually? Anyone? =
dp
> On 12/13/2021 7:08 AM, Randy and Valerie DeRuiter wrote:
>
> Guy-
>
> I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled out a
> cracked block at that location? That is a common spot for one, usually
> from someone in the past who pulled the engine by the studs. At least I h=
ad
> an engine like that. If you haven't done so, take a very good look at th=
e
> inside edge of the threaded hole. If you see a crack, that helicoil tric=
k
> likely won't work.
>
> If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another solution would b=
e
> to take advantage of the deeper hole that you've measured and get a shop =
to
> extend the threads of a longer head bolt. One of the inside longer ones
> might work - then shorten the other end to fit. The puzzling part is why
> does the stud cant to the rear - that doesn't sound good.
>
> Randy
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* Triumphs <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net>
> <triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net> on behalf of Guy Huggins
> <guy.huggins@icloud.com> <guy.huggins@icloud.com>
> *Sent:* Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM
> *To:* Triumph Mailing List <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> *Subject:* [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud hole in block.
> Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig.
>
> Howdy All,
>
> As part the head gasket replacement project, I need to address a
> wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head stud hole in the block.
> (If you were standing on the manifold side of the engine, it would be the
> one furtherest to the front, on the manifold side.)
>
> A stud goes in straight up and down until the top of the threads are even
> with the block, but it wiggles like hell.
> As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle starts to go away, but
> the whole thing starts to cant back toward the rear of the block.
> This make it impossible to slide the head down over the canted stud.
>
> To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert. (drill just 1/32=E2=80=
=9D
> oversized, tap, install insert).
> I am hoping that someone from the list knows of a drilling jig/guide for
> the drilling phase.
> I know better than to attempt drilling out cast iron without a steadying
> device of some sort.
>
> Any and all tips and advice are welcome.
>
> The hole is 1 5/16=E2=80=9D deep, and the threads of the stud measure 3/4=
=E2=80=9D.
> It is basically threaded top to bottom.
>
> Thanks in advance.
> I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing to fix the known thing.
>
>
> Kind Regards,
>
> Guy D. Huggins
> guy.huggins@icloud.com
> 817.454.6415
>
>
>
>
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/arch=
ive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/frogey=
e@porterscustom.com
>
> --
> Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My =
World go here: WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/triumphstag@gmail.com
>
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<div dir=3D"auto">Canted studs On Stag too. Regarding coiled inserts.=C2=A0=
Time Serts are good. Not cheap though.=C2=A0<div dir=3D"auto">Sujit</div><=
/div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">O=
n Mon, Dec 13, 2021, 6:42 AM David P <<a href=3D"mailto:frogeye@portersc=
ustom.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">frogeye@portersc=
ustom.com</a>> wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=
=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">
=20
=20
=20
<div>
<p>... my recollection is waning, but did not the TR7 block have
purposely canted head studs that had to be removed/inserted
individually? Anyone?=C2=A0 dp <br>
</p>
<div>On 12/13/2021 7:08 AM, Randy and
Valerie DeRuiter wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
=20
=20
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
Guy-</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
I don't want to sound too doom and gloomy, but have you ruled
out a cracked block at that location?=C2=A0 That is a common spot f=
or
one, usually from someone in the past who pulled the engine by
the studs. At least I had an engine like that.=C2=A0 If you haven&#=
39;t
done so, take a very good look at the inside edge of the
threaded hole.=C2=A0 If you see a crack, that helicoil trick likely
won't work.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
If you are convinced it is not cracked, possibly another
solution would be to take advantage of the deeper hole that
you've measured and get a shop to extend the threads of a longe=
r
head bolt.=C2=A0 One of the inside longer ones might work - then
shorten the other end to fit.=C2=A0 The puzzling part is why does t=
he
stud cant to the rear - that doesn't sound good.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12pt=
;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
Randy</div>
<div>
<div style=3D"font-family:Calibri,Helvetica,sans-serif;font-size:12=
pt;color:rgb(0,0,0)">
<br>
</div>
<hr style=3D"display:inline-block;width:98%">
<div id=3D"m_8353697190526945515m_-4140325184600644177m_-5309575798=
716590931divRplyFwdMsg" dir=3D"ltr"><font style=3D"font-size:11pt" face=3D"=
Calibri, sans-serif" color=3D"#000000"><b>From:</b>
Triumphs <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net" rel=
=3D"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"><triumphs-bounce=
s@autox.team.net></a> on behalf
of Guy Huggins <a href=3D"mailto:guy.huggins@icloud.com" rel=3D=
"noreferrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"><guy.huggins@icloud=
.com></a><br>
<b>Sent:</b> Saturday, December 11, 2021 5:28 PM<br>
<b>To:</b> Triumph Mailing List
<a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer no=
referrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"><triumphs@autox.team.net></a><=
br>
<b>Subject:</b> [TR] 1965 TR4A - Looking to drill out a stud
hole in block. Need recommendations on a drill guide/jig.</font=
>
<div>=C2=A0</div>
</div>
<div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">Ho=
wdy All,
<div><br>
</div>
<div>As part the head gasket replacement project, I
need to address a wallowed-out and stripped cylinder head
stud hole in the block.</div>
<div>(If you were standing on the manifold side of
the engine, it would be the one furtherest to the front, on
the manifold side.)</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>A stud goes in straight up and down until the
top of the threads are even with the block, but it wiggles
like hell.</div>
<div>As you tighten the stud down further, the wiggle
starts to go away, but the whole thing starts to cant back
toward the rear of the block.</div>
<div>This make it impossible to slide the head down
over the canted stud.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>To fix this I intend to install a coiled insert.
=C2=A0(drill just 1/32=E2=80=9D oversized, tap, install insert)=
.</div>
<div>I am hoping that someone from the list knows of
a drilling jig/guide for the drilling phase.</div>
<div>I know better than to attempt drilling out cast
iron without a steadying device of some sort.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Any and all tips and advice are welcome.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>The hole is 1 5/16=E2=80=9D deep, and the threads of the
stud measure 3/4=E2=80=9D.</div>
<div>It is basically threaded top to bottom.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>Thanks in advance.</div>
<div>I hate it when you have to fix the unknown thing
to fix the known thing.</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div><br>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);letter-spacing:normal;text-ali=
gn:start;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;white-space:normal;word-spacin=
g:0px;word-wrap:break-word;line-break:after-white-space">
<div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word;line-break:after-white-s=
pace">
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Helvetica;font=
-size:14px;font-style:normal;font-variant-caps:normal;font-weight:normal;le=
tter-spacing:normal;text-align:start;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;wh=
ite-space:normal;word-spacing:0px">
Kind Regards,<br>
<br>
Guy D. Huggins<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:guy.huggins@icloud.com" rel=3D"norefe=
rrer noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">guy.huggins@icloud.com</a><br=
>
817.454.6415</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(0,0,0);font-family:Helvetica;font=
-size:14px;font-style:normal;font-variant-caps:normal;font-weight:normal;le=
tter-spacing:normal;text-align:start;text-indent:0px;text-transform:none;wh=
ite-space:normal;word-spacing:0px">
<br>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<br>
</div>
<br>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<br>
<fieldset></fieldset>
<pre>** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" rel=3D"noreferrer =
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</pre>
</blockquote>
<pre cols=3D"72">--=20
Porter Custom Bicycles 2909 Arno St. NE Albuquerque, NM. 505-352-1378 My Wo=
rld go here: <a href=3D"http://WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/" rel=3D"noreferrer nore=
ferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">WWW.PORTERBIKES.COM/</a></pre>
</div>
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