One thing I have heard is to go in through the ash tray but never tried it
myself. Also I would highly recommend the Moss headlight relay kit if you have
not already installed. Easy to hook up and pulls a lot of power away from the
switches.Â
Robert
On Wednesday, December 1, 2021, 11:53:00 AM EST, Tim Gaines
<mtgaines@presby.edu> wrote:
 Â
Despite some difficulties I'm making progress in installing LiteZupp LEDs into
the instruments in my 1974 LHD TR6. The difficulties stem from my (possibly
foolish) decision to do the job without removing the dash. With the help of a
couple of long-reach needle nose pliers I've replaced the two illumination
bulbs in each of the speedo and tach and the single ones in the temperature and
oil pressure gauges, not without several scrapes to my fingers. However, I
really don't think that will work with the fuel and temperature gauges on the
right. There are just too many obstacles, so something is going to have to be
removed, likely either the radio or the glove box or both. It looks to me as if
the glove box space would provide the best access, but I have read of some
difficulties in getting it back in place after removal. I would appreciate any
advice from those who have done these bulb replacements or taken out the glove
box.
In the process of doing this bulb job I came across another problem. The new
LED for the high beam indicator just wouldn't light, and it didn't matter which
of the new LEDs I put in. So I went back to the old incandescent bulb and it
didn't light either despite having worked a short time earlier. After checking
the wiring to the socket and finding no issues I decided that the problem must
be the iffy headlight dimmer switch on the right side of the steering column. I
say "iffy" because occasionally I had found that switching to high beam left me
with no headlights at all! I took off the plastic cowlings and got access to
the switch though I couldn't pull it out because its wires are clamped within a
channel under the steering column. Nevertheless, I could pivot the switch out
to get a narrow view of its innards and insert the thin nozzle from a can of
WD40, hoping for a lucky fix. The result was that the switch, when re-attached
with its retaining screws, would now pivot toward me, something it never would
do before. With the battery re-attached as well, that pivot action produced a
high beam flash that also lit the beam indicator! I never knew I had a high
beam flash in this old car! So, everything was fixed!? Not so much. The light
switch on the dash wouldn't give me headlights at all despite the fact that it
would give me interior lights and the other exterior ones.Â
It was time to get out Dan Masters' guide to electronics, and as always with
this manual, I now understand the circuitry and my remaining problem. When
everything is working, the flash function of the dimmer switch takes voltage
from a fuse to the high beams directly regardless of whether the light switch
on the dash is set for headlights. When the dash switch is set for headlights
the voltage is taken directly from the battery to the column switch that
determines whether low or high beams are activated. In following Masters'
troubleshooting steps, I found that my dash light switch was bad. It must have
failed as I repeatedly flipped it off and on to test all the new LEDs going in!
I removed it, verified with a meter that it was bad but managed to clean it up
inside, and it now tests okay. Today I plan to spray some electronic contact
cleaner (not just WD40) into the dimmer switch and hope that all of its
settings will work okay after I put the dash switch back in.
I'm sorry for the diversion into headlights. What I really want to know now is
how to get those last two gauges illuminated with new LEDs.
Tim Â
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