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so you siliconed your pan in place? yep...will be a bitch.
As you mentioned little to no room... you can use a paint can
opener...looks like a beer bottle opener at one end, and a tiny crowbar
at the other.
You can use a piece of wood ( suggest a 1x2" piece of oak, any big box
store) wedged between frame and the back side of the opener as you
wiggle the mini crowbar end into the groove between pan and block,
working your way around little by little ... using the wood the force
the crowbar end into the groove.
option 2... use the wood and a heavy trapezoid shaped utility knife
blade (no handle) and wedge the blade in to cut the silicone. (be
prepared to break a few tips so have a couple on hand)
Next build.... gasket on a very flat table, silicone on the
gasket,,,then gently sit the pan on the gasket and let it sit to set
up. This leave a flexible and very flat surface. Blue Hylomar on the
gasket to block surface, then torque to spec. EASY to remove and should
never leak  BTDT for 40 years now or 10's of cars with none ever leaking.
ptegler
On 9/12/2021 6:03 PM, Don Hiscock wrote:
> Permatex is a pretty reputable company. Perhaps a call or email to
> their tech service team might give some good tips?
>
> On Sun, Sep 12, 2021 at 3:52 PM David Friedlander <forzion7@gmail.com
>
> Hey all ~
>
> A couple of years ago, I installed the oil pan on my TR3 using
> "The Right
> Stuff." I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any
> ideas on
> "creative ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? :- )Â
> I don't
> have the benefit of a lift so not much room for leverage/maneuvering.
> I've never experienced such an issue when removing the oilpan on
> my TR6,
> using other sealants.
> Thanks for any help.
>
> Dave
>
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>
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Paul Tegler
ptegler@verizon.net www.teglerizer.com
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<p>so you siliconed your pan in place? yep...will be a bitch.</p>
<p>As you mentioned little to no room... you can use a paint can
opener...looks like a beer bottle opener at one end, and a tiny
crowbar at the other.<br>
You can use a piece of wood ( suggest a 1x2" piece of oak, any big
box store) wedged between frame and the back side of the opener as
you wiggle the mini crowbar end into the groove between pan and
block, working your way around little by little ... using the wood
the force the crowbar end into the groove.</p>
<p>option 2... use the wood and a heavy trapezoid shaped utility
knife blade (no handle) and wedge the blade in to cut the
silicone. (be prepared to break a few tips so have a couple on
hand) <br>
</p>
<p>Next build.... gasket on a very flat table, silicone on the
gasket,,,then gently sit the pan on the gasket and let it sit to
set up. This leave a flexible and very flat surface. Blue Hylomar
on the gasket to block surface, then torque to spec. EASY to
remove and should never leak  BTDT for 40 years now or 10's of
cars with none ever leaking.</p>
<p>ptegler</p>
<p><br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 9/12/2021 6:03 PM, Don Hiscock
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
cite="mid:CAPK7CFAbkO6FqU3enyHzDVK77j9ROvm6HxM3mWhjkSH-h489Pw@mail.gmail.com">
<meta http-equiv="content-type" content="text/html; charset=UTF-8">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-size:small">Permatex is a
pretty reputable company. Perhaps a call or email to their
tech service team might give some good tips?</div>
</div>
<br>
<div class="gmail_quote">
<div dir="ltr" class="gmail_attr">On Sun, Sep 12, 2021 at 3:52
PM David Friedlander <<a href="mailto:forzion7@gmail.com";
moz-do-not-send="true">forzion7@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote class="gmail_quote" style="margin:0px 0px 0px
0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex">
<div dir="ltr">
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:"comic
sans
ms",sans-serif;font-size:large;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Hey
all ~</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:"comic
sans
ms",sans-serif;font-size:large;color:rgb(0,0,153)"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:"comic
sans
ms",sans-serif;font-size:large;color:rgb(0,0,153)">A
couple of years ago, I installed the oil pan on my TR3
using "The Right </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:"comic
sans
ms",sans-serif;font-size:large;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Stuff."
I now find I need to remove my oil pan. Anyone have any
ideas on </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:"comic
sans
ms",sans-serif;font-size:large;color:rgb(0,0,153)">"creative
ways" to remove the oil pan without destroying it? :- )Â I
don't </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:"comic
sans
ms",sans-serif;font-size:large;color:rgb(0,0,153)">have
the benefit of a lift so not much room for
leverage/maneuvering. </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:"comic
sans
ms",sans-serif;font-size:large;color:rgb(0,0,153)">I've
never experienced such an issue when removing the
oilpan on my TR6, </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:"comic
sans
ms",sans-serif;font-size:large;color:rgb(0,0,153)">using
other sealants. </div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:"comic
sans
ms",sans-serif;font-size:large;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Thanks
for any help.</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:"comic
sans
ms",sans-serif;font-size:large;color:rgb(0,0,153)"><br>
</div>
<div class="gmail_default" style="font-family:"comic
sans
ms",sans-serif;font-size:large;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Dave</div>
</div>
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<pre class="moz-quote-pre" wrap="">** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
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<pre class="moz-signature" cols="72">--
Paul Tegler
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:ptegler@verizon.net";>ptegler@verizon.net</a> <a
class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="http://www.teglerizer.com";>www.teglerizer.com</a></pre>
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