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Re: [TR] I story...

To: "fishplate@gmail.com" <fishplate@gmail.com>, "anabil007@comcast.net" <anabil007@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] I story...
From: DAVID MASSEY <dave1massey@cs.com>
Date: Fri, 21 May 2021 11:37:46 +0000 (UTC)
Cc: "triumphs@autox.team.net" <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <D960DC92-1ACF-4EA3-AD6D-D5ED023FBA66@comcast.net> <CAO8Q7CODQ9q64tkWxzTwb3tUjt=P7Wo5bF_LdHiZtzdQeCP8qQ@mail.gmail.com> x64; rv:88.0) Gecko/20100101 Firefox/88.0
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 A swollen hose is definitely a possibility and the most likely explanation=
 for a single brake hang-up.=C2=A0 Another possibility for the front brakes=
 staying engaged is that the tipping valve in the master cylinder is not ge=
tting actuated to relieve residual pressure when the brakes are released.=
=C2=A0 Your comment " she noticed the brake pedal just needed to be touched=
 and she would be able to stop" suggests that either the pedal is not retur=
ning fully or the piston in the master cylinder is not returning sufficient=
ly to engage the tipping valve.=C2=A0=20

The tipping valve opens the passage between the front brake circuit and the=
 reservoir.=C2=A0 As the fluid in the calipers warms up and expands the exc=
ess volume must vent to the reservoir to prevent the build-up of pressure a=
nd the resulting engagement of the pads. This failure will effect both fron=
t brakes equally.

The rear circuit has a similar device at the very end of the piston.=C2=A0 =
It is the little cup that blocks off the port to the rear reservoir.=C2=A0 =
I've seen one of those become disengaged causing the brakes to self-actuate=
.=C2=A0 This was on a Hearld (single circuit brakes) and cracking a bleeder=
 resolved the problem in the short term.
=20
Dave=20

=20
=20
-----Original Message-----
From: Jeff Scarbrough <fishplate@gmail.com>
To: William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net>
Cc: TR3/6 <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Fri, May 21, 2021 5:11 am
Subject: Re: [TR] I story...

I didn't see any responses...so here's my thoughts.

1.=C2=A0 This is a typical symptom of swollen brake hoses.=C2=A0 Easy to ch=
eck:
Jack up the car, and see if the wheel spins.=C2=A0 If so, apply the brakes
firmly and check to see if it's tight.=C2=A0 If so, open the bleed screw
and see if it now spins easier.=C2=A0 If so, probably need to investigate
new hoses.

2.=C2=A0 If you didn't have trouble getting the new pads in the calipers,
then the shim probably isn't the problem.

3.=C2=A0 Calipers can also fail.

4.=C2=A0 Is the problem on more than one wheel?=C2=A0 (This should have act=
ually
been first - if it shows up on wheels that don't share a hose, look to
the master cylinder - or a problem with the new parts.)

On Tue, May 18, 2021 at 1:48 PM William Pugh <anabil007@comcast.net> wrote:
>
> This winter we worked on getting the TR3 & TR6 in as good shape as possib=
le
>
> Front and rear pads and liners were installed (new)
> TR6 enjoyed having all the old Hydralic fluid removed and replaced severa=
l other enhancements but I want to stick with the Front Brakes on TR6.
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 After the work was done we followed the Moss i=
nstructions =E2=80=9Cdrive slowly up and down for a while, do not use brake=
s=E2=80=9D=C2=A0 We did that, all seemed well, we slowly began using the br=
akes and all was well.
>=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Then we took several short drives =E2=80=9Cavo=
iding hard braking=E2=80=9D=C2=A0 10 miles, 20 miles, 50 miles we are being=
 =E2=80=9Cgood=E2=80=9D.
>
> But =E2=80=A6 you knew this was coming =E2=80=A6 Yesterday AB drove to Lo=
di for a meeting with her PEO ladies, first time this year. No problem =E2=
=80=A6 coming through Lockford, CA a Fire Truck came out suddenly and she n=
eeded to get out of the way, pulled to curb, heavy braking. When all clear =
she started returning home 10 miles, no need for brakes, she the caught a S=
toplight for several minutes and she noticed the brake pedal just needed to=
 be touched and she would be able to stop=E2=80=A6very worry because before=
 the pedal had normal movement.
>
> She drove on home 5 miles and when she entered the garage the front disks=
 were SMOKING!
>
> Nothing to do but wait for all to cool down.
>
> I have several pictures Rotor has sand melted on rim, some streaks on fla=
t side. Why???
>
> Well they got to hot =E2=80=A6 yep =E2=80=A6 but why? When we removed the=
 new disks, they were backed by a thin shim.=C2=A0 That was on the original=
 pads as they grew smaller.=C2=A0 Is it possible that those shims put too m=
uch pressure and caused the serious overheating?=C2=A0 A small mind would l=
ike to know.
>
> I have photos if anyone is interested , all kind looks OK ,,,
>
>
> Thanks
> Bill & AnnaBelle
> Rosey TR6=C2=A0 1970
> Casper TR3=C2=A0 1957 (he is just fine)
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/arch=
ive
>
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ate@gmail.com
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Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs  http://www.team.net/archiv=
e

sey@cs.com

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<div style=3D"color:black;font: 12pt Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;">
<div> <font size=3D"3">A swollen hose is definitely a possibility and the m=
ost likely explanation for a single brake hang-up.&nbsp; Another possibilit=
y for the front brakes staying engaged is that the tipping valve in the mas=
ter cylinder is not getting actuated to relieve residual pressure when the =
brakes are released.&nbsp; Your comment "</font><font size=3D"2"> she notic=
ed the brake pedal just needed to be touched and she would be able to stop"=
 <font size=3D"3">suggests that either the pedal is not returning fully or =
the piston in the master cylinder is not returning sufficiently to engage t=
he tipping valve.&nbsp; <br>
</font></font></div>

<div><font size=3D"2"><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></font></div>

<div><font size=3D"2"><font size=3D"3">The tipping valve opens the passage =
between the front brake circuit and the reservoir.&nbsp; As the fluid in th=
e calipers warms up and expands the excess volume must vent to the reservoi=
r to prevent the build-up of pressure and the resulting engagement of the p=
ads. This failure will effect both front brakes equally.<br>
</font></font></div>

<div><font size=3D"2"><font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></font></div>

<div><font size=3D"2"><font size=3D"3">The rear circuit has a similar devic=
e at the very end of the piston.&nbsp; It is the little cup that blocks off=
 the port to the rear reservoir.&nbsp; I've seen one of those become diseng=
aged causing the brakes to self-actuate.&nbsp; This was on a Hearld (single=
 circuit brakes) and cracking a bleeder resolved the problem in the short t=
erm.<br>
</font></font></div>

<div> <font size=3D"3"><br>
</font></div>

<div style=3D"clear:both"><font size=3D"3">Dave <br>
</font><br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div> <br>
</div>

<div style=3D"font-family:arial,helvetica;font-size:10pt;color:black"><font=
 size=3D"2">-----Original Message-----<br>
From: Jeff Scarbrough &lt;fishplate@gmail.com&gt;<br>
To: William Pugh &lt;anabil007@comcast.net&gt;<br>
Cc: TR3/6 &lt;triumphs@autox.team.net&gt;<br>
Sent: Fri, May 21, 2021 5:11 am<br>
Subject: Re: [TR] I story...<br>
<br>

<div dir=3D"ltr">I didn't see any responses...so here's my thoughts.<br cle=
ar=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">1.&nbsp; This is a typical symptom of swolle=
n brake hoses.&nbsp; Easy to check:<br clear=3D"none">Jack up the car, and =
see if the wheel spins.&nbsp; If so, apply the brakes<br clear=3D"none">fir=
mly and check to see if it's tight.&nbsp; If so, open the bleed screw<br cl=
ear=3D"none">and see if it now spins easier.&nbsp; If so, probably need to =
investigate<br clear=3D"none">new hoses.<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"non=
e">2.&nbsp; If you didn't have trouble getting the new pads in the calipers=
,<br clear=3D"none">then the shim probably isn't the problem.<br clear=3D"n=
one"><br clear=3D"none">3.&nbsp; Calipers can also fail.<br clear=3D"none">=
<br clear=3D"none">4.&nbsp; Is the problem on more than one wheel?&nbsp; (T=
his should have actually<br clear=3D"none">been first - if it shows up on w=
heels that don't share a hose, look to<br clear=3D"none">the master cylinde=
r - or a problem with the new parts.)<br clear=3D"none"><br clear=3D"none">=
On Tue, May 18, 2021 at 1:48 PM William Pugh &lt;<a shape=3D"rect" ymailto=
=3D"mailto:anabil007@comcast.net"; href=3D"mailto:anabil007@comcast.net";>ana=
bil007@comcast.net</a>&gt; wrote:<br clear=3D"none">&gt;<br clear=3D"none">=
&gt; This winter we worked on getting the TR3 &amp; TR6 in as good shape as=
 possible<br clear=3D"none">&gt;<br clear=3D"none">&gt; Front and rear pads=
 and liners were installed (new)<br clear=3D"none">&gt; TR6 enjoyed having =
all the old Hydralic fluid removed and replaced several other enhancements =
but I want to stick with the Front Brakes on TR6.<br clear=3D"none">&gt;&nb=
sp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  After the work was done we followed the Moss inst=
ructions =E2=80=9Cdrive slowly up and down for a while, do not use brakes=
=E2=80=9D&nbsp; We did that, all seemed well, we slowly began using the bra=
kes and all was well.<br clear=3D"none">&gt;&nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp; &nbsp;  Th=
en we took several short drives =E2=80=9Cavoiding hard braking=E2=80=9D&nbs=
p; 10 miles, 20 miles, 50 miles we are being =E2=80=9Cgood=E2=80=9D.<br cle=
ar=3D"none">&gt;<br clear=3D"none">&gt; But =E2=80=A6 you knew this was com=
ing =E2=80=A6 Yesterday AB drove to Lodi for a meeting with her PEO ladies,=
 first time this year. No problem =E2=80=A6 coming through Lockford, CA a F=
ire Truck came out suddenly and she needed to get out of the way, pulled to=
 curb, heavy braking. When all clear she started returning home 10 miles, n=
o need for brakes, she the caught a Stoplight for several minutes and she n=
oticed the brake pedal just needed to be touched and she would be able to s=
top=E2=80=A6very worry because before the pedal had normal movement.<br cle=
ar=3D"none">&gt;<br clear=3D"none">&gt; She drove on home 5 miles and when =
she entered the garage the front disks were SMOKING!<br clear=3D"none">&gt;=
<br clear=3D"none">&gt; Nothing to do but wait for all to cool down.<br cle=
ar=3D"none">&gt;<br clear=3D"none">&gt; I have several pictures Rotor has s=
and melted on rim, some streaks on flat side. Why???<br clear=3D"none">&gt;=
<br clear=3D"none">&gt; Well they got to hot =E2=80=A6 yep =E2=80=A6 but wh=
y? When we removed the new disks, they were backed by a thin shim.&nbsp; Th=
at was on the original pads as they grew smaller.&nbsp; Is it possible that=
 those shims put too much pressure and caused the serious overheating?&nbsp=
; A small mind would like to know.<br clear=3D"none">&gt;<br clear=3D"none"=
>&gt; I have photos if anyone is interested , all kind looks OK ,,,<br clea=
r=3D"none">&gt;<br clear=3D"none">&gt;<br clear=3D"none">&gt; Thanks<br cle=
ar=3D"none">&gt; Bill &amp; AnnaBelle<br clear=3D"none">&gt; Rosey TR6&nbsp=
; 1970<br clear=3D"none">&gt; Casper TR3&nbsp; 1957 (he is just fine)<br cl=
ear=3D"none">&gt;<br clear=3D"none">&gt;<br clear=3D"none">&gt; ** <a shape=
=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; href=3D"mailto:triumph=
s@autox.team.net">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<br clear=3D"none">&gt;<br =
clear=3D"none">&gt; Donate: <a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"http://www.team.net/d=
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