--===============5421076793382713740==
--000000000000a0155105b79a7298
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
One possibility is a stuck float in one of the carbs (though it may have
freed up since it is now running better).
A quick check for that when it happens is to remove the top of the float
bowl for a look.
An IR temp gun can also be used on the exhaust manifold right after start
up... any cylinders that aren't performing well will have significantly
lower temperatures.
Geo
On Mon, Dec 28, 2020, 12:56 PM Perry Hammock <perryfly@gmail.com> wrote:
> Was out of town for a couple months and my little TR3 was put to bed
> without any preparation (left town in kind of a hurry, and drive the car
> practically daily in decent weather.
>
> When I got back, it wouldn=E2=80=99t start without starting fluid, and ra=
n
> terribly, was rally hard to get off idle. Needed choke to run.
> Underivable.
>
> So I went through what it could be - figured something on startup. Put
> some fuel treatment in the gas - thinking it had lost oomph while sitting=
,
> but running was really bad. Changed plugs, checked fuel pump, timing (ha=
ve
> pertronix) etc. seemed like cylinder 2 was not firing -
> Plug was definitely not fouled or as dark as other plugs. Checked wiring
> - switched plug wires, new red rotor, new distributor cap (I use the MG c=
ap
> with push in connectors), then found that if I removed the plug wires one
> at a time, it would nearly die, except for number 2.
>
> Checked valve lash and reset, tied again - checked compression - 133 - 13=
7
> across the board. Got it running again, got better, then ran good enough
> to drive - went fine.
>
> OK - So maybe bad gas. Would Jake sense that the fuel srtailizer and
> octane booster finally worked its way to the cars. But, still, cylinder =
2
> doesn=E2=80=99t affect engine running as much if spark wire pulled. Is t=
his a
> function of the firing order? I cant imagine what it could be - cant be
> carb - feeds number 1 as well. Has big spark, as do all the plugs, and
> from the cap.
>
> Any ideas? Sorry for the length of this post and thanks in advance!
>
> Perry
> 1960 tr3a overdrive
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs
> http://www.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com
>
--000000000000a0155105b79a7298
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"auto">One possibility is a stuck float in one of the carbs (tho=
ugh it may have freed up since it is now running better).<div dir=3D"auto">=
<br></div><div dir=3D"auto">A quick check for that when it happens is to re=
move the top of the float bowl for a look.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div=
><div dir=3D"auto">An IR temp gun can also be used on the exhaust manifold =
right after start up... any cylinders that aren't performing well will =
have significantly lower temperatures.</div><div dir=3D"auto"><br></div><di=
v dir=3D"auto">Geo</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"lt=
r" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 28, 2020, 12:56 PM Perry Hammock <<a=
href=3D"mailto:perryfly@gmail.com";>perryfly@gmail.com</a>> wrote:<br></=
div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-lef=
t:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">Was out of town for a couple months and =
my little TR3 was put to bed without any preparation (left town in kind of =
a hurry, and drive the car practically daily in decent weather.<br>
<br>
When I got back, it wouldn=E2=80=99t start without starting fluid, and ran =
terribly, was rally hard to get off idle.=C2=A0 Needed choke to run.=C2=A0 =
Underivable.<br>
<br>
So I went through what it could be - figured something on startup.=C2=A0 Pu=
t some fuel treatment in the gas - thinking it had lost oomph while sitting=
, but running was really bad.=C2=A0 Changed plugs, checked fuel pump, timin=
g (have pertronix) etc.=C2=A0 seemed like cylinder 2 was not firing -<br>
Plug was definitely not fouled or as dark as other plugs.=C2=A0 Checked wir=
ing - switched plug wires, new red rotor, new distributor cap (I use the MG=
cap with push in connectors), then found that if I removed the plug wires =
one at a time, it would nearly die, except for number 2.<br>
<br>
Checked valve lash and reset, tied again - checked compression - 133 - 137 =
across the board.=C2=A0 Got it running again, got better, then ran good eno=
ugh to drive - went fine.<br>
<br>
OK - So maybe bad gas. Would Jake sense that the fuel srtailizer and octane=
booster finally worked its way to the cars.=C2=A0 But, still, cylinder 2 d=
oesn=E2=80=99t affect engine running as much if spark wire pulled.=C2=A0 Is=
this a function of the firing order?=C2=A0 I cant imagine what it could be=
- cant be carb - feeds number 1 as well.=C2=A0 Has big spark, as do all th=
e plugs, and from the cap.<br>
<br>
Any ideas?=C2=A0 Sorry for the length of this post and thanks in advance!<b=
r>
<br>
Perry<br>
1960 tr3a overdrive<br>
** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"nore=
ferrer">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<br>
<br>
errer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs"; rel=3D"noreferr=
er noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs</a>=
=C2=A0 <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive"; rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer=
" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/archive</a><br>
<br>
hs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com" rel=3D"noreferrer noreferrer" target=3D"_blank">ht=
tp://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ahwahneetr@gmail.com</a><br>
</blockquote></div>
--000000000000a0155105b79a7298--
--===============5421076793382713740==
Content-Transfer-Encoding: 7bit
Content-Disposition: inline
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/triumphs http://www.team.net/archive
--===============5421076793382713740==--
|