> 1. What are the disadvantages of NOT putting a thermostat in
> the engine in Florida?
For one thing, it makes it really tough to get the mixture adjusted
properly. Running too rich wastes fuel and may lead to more rapid engine
wear.
> I found out that the prev owner did
> not put one in. So I installed a new bellows type and it
> raises my normal operating temp from just under 185 at idle
> to about 200+. I verified it is working in pot of hot water.
> Opens at 180.
Original type bellows thermostat should start to open around 160, not 180.
(70C, 158F per workshop manual) They open slow, full open isn't until 197F
(again per the manual)
> Could also be the temp gauge but haven't
> verified.
Sounds like the most likely culprit to me. FWIW, while it doesn't get quite
as hot here as FL, I run an ordinary wax pellet type thermostat, and have no
overheating problems at all, even with outside temps over 110F. (Somewhere
around 115F, the driver overheats.) I do have a few other improvements,
though, including electric fan, no crank hole in the recored original
radiator, and a coolant recovery bottle.
> My brakes drag a
> little and it isn't the rear drum adjust. I had heard that
> the valve assembly can cause that outcome when faulty.
Actually, I believe it causes them to drag lightly even when it is working
correctly. I always found it annoying that the car wouldn't roll freely
after I took my foot off the pedal.
> I also heard it is ok to remove it and just attach the brake
> line to the 5 way connector. Any thoughts on doing this?
You'll probably need to replace the line, the stock line isn't long enough
to reach the extra 2" or so. I've also heard rumors that some 5-way
connectors were not machined to accept a brake line from above (mine have
been, but I've only owned earlier cars). What I did instead was to remove
the internals from the valve, and put the housing back in place.
https://i.imgur.com/ISB0yMy.jpg
The downside of removing or disabling the valve (which is more accurately a
residual pressure valve, not a simple restriction) is that you may get a low
brake pedal after "spirited" driving. It can be rather disconcerting if you
are not expecting it!
But, at least in my experience, it doesn't go all the way to the floor. I
can always get brakes by just pushing the pedal down farther. And it comes
up right away. I've gotten into the habit of kind of testing the brakes
after taking a hard curve, just to bring it back up.
A better solution is probably to fit the uprated spindles and spacers.
Originally developed by "uncle jack" (IIRC), they are now available from
TRF.
http://trf.zeni.net/TR6-TR250GB/191.php
I've got a set on the shelf, just haven't found that particular round tuit
yet.
-- Randall
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