This is my fix. I broke the verticle link shown in 1982 at Mid-O. The thread
on the OE part is 10 threads per inch and so I turned the piece shown so it fit
all the way to the top of the machined link and then turned the bottom of the
treads off to fit a heim joint. I threaded the OE lube hole all the way to the
top and use a long bolt (forget the actual size and length). So the result is
similar to the Canley piece except I made mine in 1982. The original pieces I
made are still on the car today. But I did make a spare set that are still on
the shelf.
> On May 14, 2018 at 12:17 PM Scott Janzen via Fot <fot at autox.team.net>
> wrote:
>
> I?ve been using the trunnionless front suspension vertical link on my GT6
> that Canley Classics sells for the past two years. I?ve now had two fail the
> annual magnaflux tests. They cracked in different locations, one right at
> the machining line for the flat for the stub axle nut, on the back side where
> the steering arm passes through, and one on the upright at what appeared to
> be a casting mark, near the bump you see in the photo below. Neither crack
> was visible to the eye. The upright Canley sells no longer looks exactly like
> the photo - it now has a machined area on the back side, away from the wheel,
> much like stock ones. Maybe I just had bad luck, but between two cracks and
> some binding issues at the ball joint I had to rectify, I would no longer
> recommend these.
>
> I started using the Canley units when the stock ones developed cracks in
> the traditional place at the top end of the threads where the trunnion is.
>
> I have now installed uprights I got from Jigsaw Racing
> https://jigsawracingservices.com - Mark Field, in England. The main
> difference from stock is they are not drilled for a grease fitting or grease
> boring down into the trunnion, which should make them stronger where the
> stock ones usually fail. Mark races Spitfires and GT6s for himself and for
> customers in vintage racing and claims he has never had a failure. He
> further claims that the units are made in the original forging molds and by
> the same people that made the Stanpart units.
>
> Main point is, even though it?s a pain, pull your critical parts off and
> get them magnafluxed at least once in a while. I?ve become paranoid and this
> is now an annual exercise. The machine shop I go to usually does it for free
> while I am watching, probably because I?m usually dropping off engine parts
> where the real dollars get spent!
>
>
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