I'm running 20-50 with zinc additive, and adjusted my oil pressure so it's
about 75 psi when fully warmed up and at freeway speed, 2500 RPM or so.
Rye
On Mar 27, 2018, at 02:42 PM, Randall <tr3driver at ca.rr.com> wrote:
As long as the pressure doesn't go much higher even when cold, I think you are
good. But if you're sure your gauge is accurate and you're getting over 90
under some circumstances, I would try switching to a thinner oil, and maybe
backing off the oil pressure relief valve just a bit.
That said, I ran for several months (many years ago) with a setup that pegged
the gauge on cold start, and it didn't seem to damage anything. I eventually
switched from straight 40 weight to 10W30 to solve the problem. And, IIRC,
20W50/after 30,000 miles or so.
-- Randall
On 27 March 2018 09:41:29 GMT-07:00, William Brewer <billbrewer59 at yahoo.com>
wrote:
???? I just rebuilt a Standard Vanguard engine for my Morgan. The SV engine was
the forefather to the TR2/3/4 engines and uses the same internals with a
different head. I put on an exterior oil gauge in the engine compartment
because the gauge on the dash doesn't currently work. Anyway, when I primed the
engine with a drive shaft down the distributor housing I got full oil pressure
very quickly. When the engine is idling I show 80 PSI, even when hot. I have
the standard Purolator oil filter housing and the PH3600 or equivalent for the
oil filter, the same as on my TR3. It seems like the oil pressure would be 70
psi cold and about 40 psi at hot idle, like my TR3. I checked carefully when
assembling the engine that the holes in the cam bearings lined up with the
holes in the block.
???? I am concerned that maybe something is wrong and I might snap the oil pump
drive shaft or something. Any ideas what might be causing this? Or should I be
happy that the engine is so tight and makes such goo oil pressure?
???? -Bill Brewer
** triumphs at autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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