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--001a113d3c309a3be40531dbb6a8
Perhaps not the common tool it once was but the old 'Monkey Wrench' is what
I use for that nut:
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkey_wrench
The on e I have is labeled 'Ford' - probably out of an old Model A tool
kit. File image:
Geo
On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 7:08 PM, Wbeech@flash.net <wbeech@flash.net> wrote:
> I don't have a notched plug, so I shouldn't need that scary socket. I
> tried a 32mm socket, too big, and a 30mm socket, too small. So I'll see if
> I can find goldilocks somewhere tomorrow. Hate put a pipe wrench on it,
> last option.
>
> Bill
>
>
>
> Sent from my VIC-64
>
> On Apr 30, 2016, at 10:18 AM, Randall <TR3driver@ca.rr.com> wrote:
>
>
> > 1. Have learned that the transmission and O/D use the same
> > oil reservoir so is the Red Line MT90 that I really love for
> > the trans is OK in the O/D unit?
>
> MT-90 works fine for me. I even contacted Redline tech support and that's
> what they recommended.
>
> > 2. I have drained the trans from the normal plug, do I drain
> > the O/D from that big brass plug?
>
> Yes. There is a screen inside, and perhaps some magnets, that should be
> cleaned as well. On earlier units, you remove a small
> screw with a flat washer and spacer, to get the screen out. On later
> units it just pulls out (or falls out from it's own weight if
> things are pretty clean).
>
> > 3. If #2 is yes, Do I have to be careful of anything that may
> > come out, i.e. springs or seals, when I remove the plug?
>
> There's a big fiber washer that seals the plug. Not usually a problem,
> but check that it is not damaged before you reuse it. I had
> one split and cause a leak that was hard to find. Wouldn't hurt to have a
> spare on hand (P/N 500641).
>
> Main thing to be careful of, IMO, is the plug itself. Brass is fairly
> soft, and it's easy to distort the plug, especially if you
> have the later one with the notches and try to use a drift in one notch to
> turn it. Here's a photo of the two tools I've made to
> turn the later type:
>
> http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/Tools/DSCF0007_lighter.jpg.html
>
> The one in the background is just a heavy iron bar (sold at Home Depot as
> a stake for concrete forms) that was drilled and tapped
> for a couple of bolts, then the bolts were filed to suit the plug
> notches. It worked OK, but a bit hard to get positioned on the
> car.
>
> The big socket with notches milled into it to form the teeth worked
> better, but I wish I had made it shorter so it would have less
> of a tendency to twist. I forget the size offhand, but the socket was on
> eBay, used to adjust wheel bearing nuts on a truck axle.
>
> For the earlier type, I just found a heavy (impact) 6 point socket to fit,
> and filed down the end so it grabbed as much of the hex
> as possible. Seems like maybe it was a 35mm socket (sold for CV joints on
> FWD cars), but I'm not certain of the size offhand.
>
> -- Randall
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
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--001a113d3c309a3be40531dbb6a8
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div>Perhaps not the common tool it once was but the old &=
#39;Monkey Wrench' is what I use for that nut:</div><div><br></div><div=
><a href=3D"https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Monkey_wrench";>https://en.wikiped=
ia.org/wiki/Monkey_wrench</a></div><div><br></div><div>The on e I have is l=
abeled 'Ford' - probably out of an old Model A tool kit.=C2=A0 File=
image:</div><div><br></div><div><img width=3D"471" height=3D"179" src=3D"h=
ttps://img0.etsystatic.com/004/0/5022161/il_570xN.367835942_6i0a.jpg"><br><=
/div><div><br></div><div>Geo</div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div=
class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, May 1, 2016 at 7:08 PM, <a href=3D"mailto:Wb=
eech@flash.net">Wbeech@flash.net</a> <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailt=
o:wbeech@flash.net" target=3D"_blank">wbeech@flash.net</a>></span> wrote=
:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-le=
ft:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex">I don't have a notched plug, so I s=
houldn't need that scary socket.=C2=A0 =C2=A0I tried a 32mm socket, too=
big, and a 30mm socket, too small.=C2=A0 So I'll see if I can find gol=
dilocks somewhere tomorrow.=C2=A0 =C2=A0Hate put a pipe wrench on it, last =
option.<br>
<br>
Bill<br>
<span><br>
<br>
<br>
Sent from my VIC-64<br>
<br>
On Apr 30, 2016, at 10:18 AM, Randall <<a href=3D"mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr=
.com">TR3driver@ca.rr.com</a>> wrote:<br>
<br>
<br>
</span><div><div class=3D"h5">> 1. Have learned that the transmission an=
d O/D use the same<br>
> oil reservoir so is the Red Line MT90 that I really love for<br>
> the trans is OK in the O/D unit?<br>
<br>
MT-90 works fine for me.=C2=A0 I even contacted Redline tech support and th=
at's what they recommended.<br>
<br>
> 2. I have drained the trans from the normal plug, do I drain<br>
> the O/D from that big brass plug?<br>
<br>
Yes.=C2=A0 There is a screen inside, and perhaps some magnets, that should =
be cleaned as well.=C2=A0 On earlier units, you remove a small<br>
screw with a flat washer and spacer, to get the screen out.=C2=A0 On later =
units it just pulls out (or falls out from it's own weight if<br>
things are pretty clean).<br>
<br>
> 3. If #2 is yes, Do I have to be careful of anything that may<br>
> come out, i.e. springs or seals, when I remove the plug?<br>
<br>
There's a big fiber washer that seals the plug.=C2=A0 Not usually a pro=
blem, but check that it is not damaged before you reuse it.=C2=A0 I had<br>
one split and cause a leak that was hard to find.=C2=A0 Wouldn't hurt t=
o have a spare on hand (P/N 500641).<br>
<br>
Main thing to be careful of, IMO, is the plug itself.=C2=A0 Brass is fairly=
soft, and it's easy to distort the plug, especially if you<br>
have the later one with the notches and try to use a drift in one notch to =
turn it.=C2=A0 Here's a photo of the two tools I've made to<br>
turn the later type:<br>
<a href=3D"http://s258.photobucket.com/user/TR3driver/media/Tools/DSCF0007_=
lighter.jpg.html" target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">http://s258.photobuc=
ket.com/user/TR3driver/media/Tools/DSCF0007_lighter.jpg.html</a><br>
<br>
The one in the background is just a heavy iron bar (sold at Home Depot as a=
stake for concrete forms) that was drilled and tapped<br>
for a couple of bolts, then the bolts were filed to suit the plug notches.=
=C2=A0 It worked OK, but a bit hard to get positioned on the<br>
car.<br>
<br>
The big socket with notches milled into it to form the teeth worked better,=
but I wish I had made it shorter so it would have less<br>
of a tendency to twist.=C2=A0 I forget the size offhand, but the socket was=
on eBay, used to adjust wheel bearing nuts on a truck axle.<br>
<br>
For the earlier type, I just found a heavy (impact) 6 point socket to fit, =
and filed down the end so it grabbed as much of the hex<br>
as possible.=C2=A0 Seems like maybe it was a 35mm socket (sold for CV joint=
s on FWD cars), but I'm not certain of the size offhand.<br>
<br>
-- Randall<br>
<br>
<br>
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