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Pinning seems like a major issue...gotta' pull the crank to pin it?
IF/when they wear...gotta' pull it again just to slip in a new one.
Personally (and NFI) contact Scott Helms about his alloy units.
http://www.customthrustwashers.com/
BTDT.... being able to slip in new bearings is easy in the stock config.
He can custom the thickness if needed.
Mine have worn roughly 0.0002 over the last 9K miles.
VERY happy with his product.
ptegler
On 4/10/2016 6:52 PM, Joao Simoes wrote:
> Hi.
> I am about to start tearing down the engine for my GT6 Convertible project
> and I am using a GT6 2.0 engine.
> I wonder if there is some wisdom here for the following questions?
>
> 1- I have been reading about the infamous crank thrust bearing in the Triumph
> 4 and 6 cylinder engines. It seems to me the stuck unit is a steel 180 deg
> unit that has a thin copper plating that wears, then can damage the crank by
> steel to steel contact or by falling off altogether.
>
> So I have read of 3 options: Use a copper alloy replacement (no steel), use a
> copper alloy, 360 degree replacement (needs some machining of the block), pin
> the bearing, or use another carâ??s main bearing that has built in thrust
> surfaces (machining of block and cap needed).
>
> Since I am hopping up the engine a bit for street use, which do you guys
> recommend?
>
> 2- I plan on hopping up the engine to roughly 120-130 HP. I understand a mild
> cam upgrade, some head match porting and balancing along with a compression
> increase should do it. Any recommendations? I think I will keep the stock
> intake and exhaust manifolds and Strombergs, maybe add a free flowing
> exhaust. Is that enough? Would adding triple 150 strombergs too much? Or a
> pair of 175 Strombergs?
>
> 3- Does anyone on this list know of a good Michigan located place I can take
> my block, head and crank to get cleaned up, machined as needed, etc? I plan
> on doing the assembly and disassembly, but not any machining myself.
>
> Thanks!!
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> Unsubscribe/Manage:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/ptegler@verizon.net
--
Paul Tegler ptegler@verizon.net www.teglerizer.com
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Pinning seems like a major issue...gotta' pull the crank to pin it?<br>
IF/when they wear...gotta' pull it again just to slip in a new one.<br>
<br>
Personally (and NFI)Â contact Scott Helms about his alloy units.<br>
<a
href="http://www.customthrustwashers.com/";>http://www.customthrustwashers.com/</a><br>
<a title="sportycars@britishcarweek.org"
href="mailto:sportycars@britishcarweek.org";>sportycars@britishcarweek.org</a><br>
BTDT.... being able to slip in new bearings is easy in the stock
config.<br>
He can custom the thickness if needed.<br>
Mine have worn roughly 0.0002 over the last 9K miles.<br>
VERY happy with his product.<br>
<br>
ptegler<br>
<br>
<br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 4/10/2016 6:52 PM, Joao Simoes
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote
cite="mid:2C5895A9-9D1C-4DB5-8DD0-B9EAF76A468C@comcast.net"
type="cite">
<pre wrap="">Hi.
I am about to start tearing down the engine for my GT6 Convertible project and
I am using a GT6 2.0 engine.
I wonder if there is some wisdom here for the following questions?
1- I have been reading about the infamous crank thrust bearing in the Triumph 4
and 6 cylinder engines. It seems to me the stuck unit is a steel 180 deg unit
that has a thin copper plating that wears, then can damage the crank by steel
to steel contact or by falling off altogether.
So I have read of 3 options: Use a copper alloy replacement (no steel), use a
copper alloy, 360 degree replacement (needs some machining of the block), pin
the bearing, or use another carâ??s main bearing that has built in thrust
surfaces (machining of block and cap needed).
Since I am hopping up the engine a bit for street use, which do you guys
recommend?
2- I plan on hopping up the engine to roughly 120-130 HP. I understand a mild
cam upgrade, some head match porting and balancing along with a compression
increase should do it. Any recommendations? I think I will keep the stock
intake and exhaust manifolds and Strombergs, maybe add a free flowing exhaust.
Is that enough? Would adding triple 150 strombergs too much? Or a pair of 175
Strombergs?
3- Does anyone on this list know of a good Michigan located place I can take my
block, head and crank to get cleaned up, machined as needed, etc? I plan on
doing the assembly and disassembly, but not any machining myself.
Thanks!!
** <a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net";>triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **
Archive: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/archive";>http://www.team.net/archive</a>
Forums: <a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="http://www.team.net/forums";>http://www.team.net/forums</a>
</pre>
</blockquote>
<br>
<div class="moz-signature">-- <br>
Paul Tegler
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="mailto:ptegler@verizon.net";>ptegler@verizon.net</a>
<a class="moz-txt-link-abbreviated"
href="http://www.teglerizer.com";>www.teglerizer.com</a>
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