My father used 2x6 tongue&groove, and hand picked the pieces so they were nice
on the bottom, the non-groove side, and mounted it upside down, grove side
down, so it it was very smooth. Very solid work surface.
Rye
Sent from my iPhone
> On Mar 20, 2016, at 2:00 PM, Chris Kantarjiev <cak@dimebank.com> wrote:
>
> I'd say "it depends" - on what you intend to use this workbench for.
>
> For a general purpose bench, my favorite design so far is based on a 2x4 or
> 2x6 frame, with plywood or butcher block over the top (depending on price and
> availability: 5/8", 2 sheets of 1/2", 1") topped with MDF ("Masonite"). The
> plywood is screwed to the frame and the MDF is glued down. For bonus points,
> trim the edges with MDF, too. Let the top overhang by an inch or two for
> clamping.
>
> MDF is a very forgiving surface: it absorbs oil and moisture, it won't damage
> parts when you drop them, it doesn't gouge very badly. And you can sand it
> down once or twice and then pry it off and replace it.
>
> I have used galvanized steel (from an HVAC fitter) for counter tops. It has
> its place, but it can be hard on tools and parts that interact with it.
>
> Plate steel can't be beat for a welding bench, but I wouldn't want to do
> generalized work on it.
>
> I usually attach the bench to the garage framing studs with lag bolts,
> ideally in a corner. That makes it super stable - use a 4x4 or larger on the
> "free" end and mount your vise there.
>
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