If you are prepared to throw away the head studs afterwards, nut the studs
and then weld the nuts in place. When you turn the nut, the studs will come
out. I had to do this once for a TR250 head which was stuck.
Andrew Uprichard
-----Original Message-----
From: 6pack [mailto:6pack-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Lee Daniels
via 6pack
Sent: Monday, October 12, 2015 4:08 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net; 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [6pack] [TR] Can't pull cam from block
Thanks for the suggestions - it was a lifter! Easy to fix, I was able to use
a narrow metal rod to push back the offending lifter then the cam slides
right out. (Yes, the distributor/oil pump and fuel pump hardware had already
been
removed.)
As for why I didn't pull the head first - hah! That's the problem. I've been
treating this head with Kroil/PB-blaster/etc. for about a 6 months as it sat
in the corner of the garage, but it still has not budged. Can't use the rope
trick because there's no flywheel or crank pulley to put any torque on. I've
had Kroil in through the plug holes, and now it's been upside down for a
while now and I've worked Kroil past the pistons. I've banged on all the
available "ledges" around the head with a small sledge hammer and a crow
bar. Next is to get it as hot as I can and see if that sucker will let go.
On Mon, October 12, 2015 10:38, Lee Daniels wrote:
> I have an old TR6 block in unknown condition but no visible damage or
cracks.
> I think it's from a '73. Mostly stripped down but head still attached
> and pistons/rods in place. Crank and essentially everything else
> removed. Valves are still in place (since head is on) but
> rockers/pushrods removed. I've got it upside-down on an engine stand,
> and thought I'd just pull the camshaft out. It moves out about 1/4",
> then hits a hard stop - what's it hitting? It spins freely and moves in
and out freely until it hits the stop.
>
> thanks Lee
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