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Frank;
No, I haven't even been able to get a wrench on them, not even a ratcheting
box wrench. I guess I'll just keep at it. At this point, it's not the rust
or the
number of turns I can get on them, it's getting ANY turns on them. But, I
didn't
know these were slotted holes so that's a relief. The other dozen
screws/bolts
holding the fender in place were EACH one a story. Whew! Even the front
fenders weren't this challenging. I have cut off many screw/bolts heads
since beginning this project in April....
I found a product that (to me) is much better than WD40 or PB Blaster. It's
called Aero Kroil.
Check out http://www.kanolabs.com and look at their other products as well.
NFI, of course.... This stuff *really *penetrates!
I think I need to dip this car in a VAT of this!!
Thanks for the responses. I'll have to get creative with tools...
Dave Friedlander
Maine
'74 TR6
'59 TR3A
On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 6:27 PM, Frank Fisher <yellowtr3@yahoo.com> wrote:
> they are bolts into captive nuts.
> an open end or box end is about all you can get in there. i don't think
> you'll get a socket on it.
> once you get a few turns they fender should slide off. all my fenders had
> slots for the bolts not round holes.
> is your bolt turning but not loosening?
>
> frank
>
>
>
> ------------------------------
> *From:* David Friedlander <forzion7@gmail.com>
> *To:* TR3 Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>
> *Sent:* Thursday, June 4, 2015 3:08 PM
> *Subject:* [TR] Fender bolts
>
> Hey all;
>
> I'm *trying *to remove the rear driver's side fender from my 3A. How in
> the world does one
> remove those last three vertical (i.e., one above the other) bolts at the
> rear of the rear fender
> (next to the tail light)? The fender is curved so one cannot even get a
> wrench on it, even
> with a flex socket. Did Triumph assemble these with British pygmies?? :-
> ) I have been
> trying, unsuccessfully, for several hours....
>
> Thanks for any insights....
>
> Dave Friedlander
>
>
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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>
>
>
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sa=
ns ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Frank;<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmai=
l_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)=
">No, I haven't even been able to get a wrench on them, not even a ratc=
heting <br>box wrench. I guess I'll just keep at it. At this point, it&=
#39;s not the rust or the <br>number of turns I can get on them, it's g=
etting ANY turns on them. But, I didn't <br>know these were slotted hol=
es so that's a relief. The other dozen screws/bolts <br>holding the fen=
der in place were EACH one a story. Whew! Even the front <br>fenders weren&=
#39;t this challenging. I have cut off many screw/bolts heads <br>since beg=
inning this project in April....<br><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" =
style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">I found a=
product that (to me) is much better than WD40 or PB Blaster. It's <br>=
called Aero Kroil. <br><br>Check out <a href=3D"http://www.kanolabs.com">ht=
tp://www.kanolabs.com</a> and look at their other products as well. <br>NFI=
, of course.... This stuff <i>really </i>penetrates!<br><br></div><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb=
(0,0,153)">=C2=A0I think I need to dip this car in a VAT of this!!<br><br><=
/div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-s=
erif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Thanks for the responses. I'll have to get cre=
ative with tools...<i><br><br></i></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Dave Friedland=
er<i><br></i></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic =
sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Maine<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_d=
efault" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">&=
#39;74 TR6<br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic=
sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">'59 TR3A<br></div><div class=3D=
"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0=
,153)"><br><br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gma=
il_quote">On Thu, Jun 4, 2015 at 6:27 PM, Frank Fisher <span dir=3D"ltr">&l=
t;<a href=3D"mailto:yellowtr3@yahoo.com" target=3D"_blank">yellowtr3@yahoo.=
com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"mar=
gin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div><div style=
=3D"color:#000;background-color:#fff;font-family:HelveticaNeue,Helvetica Ne=
ue,Helvetica,Arial,Lucida Grande,sans-serif;font-size:16px"><div dir=3D"ltr=
"><span>they are bolts into captive nuts.</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><spa=
n>an open end or box end is about all you can get in there. i don't thi=
nk you'll get a socket on it.=C2=A0</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>=
once you get a few turns they fender should slide off. all my fenders had s=
lots for the bolts not round holes.</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>is y=
our bolt turning but not loosening?=C2=A0</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><spa=
n><br></span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span>frank</span></div><div dir=3D"ltr=
"><span><br></span></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><span><br></span></div><br> <div=
style=3D"font-family:HelveticaNeue,Helvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,Lucida G=
rande,sans-serif;font-size:16px"> <div style=3D"font-family:HelveticaNeue,H=
elvetica Neue,Helvetica,Arial,Lucida Grande,sans-serif;font-size:16px"> <di=
v dir=3D"ltr"> <hr size=3D"1"> <font face=3D"Arial" size=3D"2"> <b><span s=
tyle=3D"font-weight:bold">From:</span></b> David Friedlander <<a href=3D=
"mailto:forzion7@gmail.com" target=3D"_blank">forzion7@gmail.com</a>><br=
> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold">To:</span></b> TR3 Triumphs <<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blank">triumphs@autox.team=
.net</a>> <br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold">Sent:</span></b> Thur=
sday, June 4, 2015 3:08 PM<br> <b><span style=3D"font-weight:bold">Subject:=
</span></b> [TR] Fender bolts<br> </font> </div> <div><div><div class=3D"h5=
"><br><div><div dir=3D"ltr"><div style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-se=
rif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Hey all;<br><br></div><div style=3D"font-family:com=
ic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">I'm <i>trying </i>to remove t=
he rear driver's side fender from my 3A. How in the world does one <br>=
remove those last three vertical (i.e., one above the other) bolts at the r=
ear of the rear fender<br>(next to the tail light)? The fender is curved so=
one cannot even get a wrench on it, even <br>with a flex socket. Did Trium=
ph assemble these with British pygmies?? :- )=C2=A0 I have been <br>trying,=
unsuccessfully, for several hours....<br><br></div><div style=3D"font-fami=
ly:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(0,0,153)">Thanks for any insights....=
<br><br></div><div style=3D"font-family:comic sans ms,sans-serif;color:rgb(=
0,0,153)">Dave Friedlander<br><br></div></div></div><br><br></div></div><sp=
an class=3D"">** <a href=3D"mailto:triumphs@autox.team.net" target=3D"_blan=
k">triumphs@autox.team.net</a> **<br><br>Donate: <a href=3D"http://www.team=
.net/donate.html" target=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>=
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive" target=3D"_blank">http://w=
ww.team.net/archive</a><br>Forums: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/forums" t=
arget=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/forums</a><br></span>Unsubscribe/Manag=
e: <a href=3D"http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yellowtr3@yaho=
o.com" target=3D"_blank">http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/triumphs/yel=
lowtr3@yahoo.com</a><br><br><br></div> </div> </div> </div></div></blockqu=
ote></div><br></div>
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