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Tony -
- I'd settle for bump stops and dishes "not perfectly aligned" - these
are WAY off - but I'll try installing with all with the original shims back
in place after I resolve the trailing arm/CV joint clearance issue.
- I'm pretty sure this car has never had any frame or significant body
damage and I think all the trailing arm shims are original to the car as well.
- I've been working on the trailing arms with them mounted on the car but
hanging almost straight down - with the car on a lift - makes test fitting
the axles and hubs pretty easy.
Without the hub bolted onto the axle, there is enough play in the splines
to allow the CV joint to rotate thru a larger circle than it would once
bolted in place - making the interference appear worse than it would be in
use. I decided to use this as the test condition, so as to be assured of
plenty of clearance in use.
- Originally, I did all my test fitting without a brake backing plate
between the hub and the trailing arm - only to realize when I thought I was
finished, that the presence of the brake backing plate draws the the CV joint
into the tapered tunnel thru the trailing arm far enough to rub again.
- the hub mounting bolt circle on these trailing arms don't appear to be
terribly far off, although I have noticed all the rubbing is on the front on
each side.
- I have been removing material from the interior of that tunnel with 30
grit sanding sleeves on a 3 inch diameter 1 inch deep sanding drum on an air
drill. Silicon carbide sleeves for soft metals work really well without
clogging at all - unfortunately the reason the don't clog is that they abrade
quickly - so I won't be doing any more until i get more sanding sleeves in
tomorrow.
Cheers,
Jack Mc
In a message dated 1/11/2015 11:08:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,
spamiam@comcast.net writes:
Jack,
My bump stop dishes do not perfectly align with the bump stops, including
all the original shims
My car has had no frame damage, and I think the shims are all original to
the car.
I did/do have trouble with clearance on the trailing arms. On the first
one, drivers side (left), I had only a little interference and a little
dremel carbide burr grinding did the job
The other side was/is a bit of a problem. The original installation of
the 6 studs was a bit off. You can see that the bottom stud is well
centered, but all the rest are slightly out of position, the circle is pivoted
on
that bottom stud by a little bit to the right. This makes the left-most 2
studs excessively close to the inside edge (slight perforation of the inner
thin wall when drilling for keenserts)
And it further reduces clearance on the right side by maybe 0.060". This
means there is a LOT of interference. I
I thought I had everything just barely clearing on the bench. I had the
hub bolted very snugly and no palpable or audible interference was present.
Mechanics blue showed no touching
So I installed the axle and trailing arm which is a pain in the neck
because the axle limits downward excursion. I got it all hooked up and all
torqued except the 250ft-lb 1.25" nut. As I then turned the axle, I could
just barely hear and feel some interference! Then it went away, but if I
shoved hard on the hub, and twisted I could gets one real grinding. So I
took
off the TA again and I need to hit it with a real die grinder tomorrow.
I only need to remove a little more metal, but I will put some tape on the
highest parts,: the clip and, oddly, the edge closest to the wheel. The
tape will make sure I have enough clearance, more than just a thousandth.
I don't want to remove much metal, but I going to shoot for about 0.010 (3
thicknesses of masking tape?)
I will need to be removing some metal from nearly 180 degrees to clear the
clip, but only at the 3:00 position is it a significant amount.
-Tony
Sent from my iPhone
On Jan 11, 2015, at 6:19 PM, Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com> wrote:
> Tony -
>
> I am also installing GoodParts CV jointed axles on a IRS TR4A at the
moment and I found the same thing - I think there were 5 shims behind every
bracket, plus a couple of non-original smaller shims that must have been
added at some point for alignment. I have remounted the trailing arms with no
shims (for now) thinking I'd let the alignment shop sort out how many should
be where, but I have noticed the bump stop dish on the trailing arm on one
side no longer lines up with the bump stop on the body.
> I haven't looked into that any further because I am distracted by a more
immediate problem:
> The outer CV joint boot and boot clip are making contact with the
trailing arm - I've never had this problem on the many TR6s I've done this to
-
so I measured and found the tunnel in the TR4A trailing to be smaller than
any of the TR6 trailing arms I have on hand - hard to quantify how much
since these tunnels taper, but looks like the TR4a trailing arm tunnels are a
little over 0.1 inch smaller in internal diameter. Have you encountered
this?
> As an aside, there are quite a few subtle differences between the TR4a
trailing arms and TR6 trailing arms - and the quality of casting looks
better with the TR4 trailing arms - the quality of casting got better during
the
TR6 model run, but these TR4 arms make early TR6 trailing arms look crude
by comparison.
>
> Cheers,
> Jack Mc
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<BODY style=3D"FONT-FAMILY: Arial; COLOR: #000000; FONT-SIZE: 10pt" id=3Dr=
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ole_document=20
color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3DArial>
<DIV>Tony -</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>- I'd settle for bump stops and dishes "not perfectly aligned"=
-=20
these are WAY off - but I'll try installing with all with the=
=20
original shims back in place after I resolve the trailing arm/CV joint cle=
arance=20
issue.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>- I'm pretty sure this car has never had any frame or significant bod=
y=20
damage and I think all the trailing arm shims are original to the car as=
=20
well.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>- I've been working on the trailing arms with them mounted on the car=
but=20
hanging almost straight down - with the car on a lift - makes test fitting=
the=20
axles and hubs pretty easy. </DIV>
<DIV><STRONG>Without the hub bolted onto the axle</STRONG>, there is enoug=
h play=20
in the splines to allow the CV joint to rotate thru a larger circle than=
it=20
would once bolted in place - making the interference appear worse than it=
would=20
be in use. I decided to use this as the test condition, so as to be assure=
d of=20
plenty of clearance in use.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>- Originally, I did all my test fitting without a brake backing=
plate=20
between the hub and the trailing arm - only to realize when I thought I wa=
s=20
finished, that the presence of the brake backing plate draws the the CV jo=
int=20
into the tapered tunnel thru the trailing arm far enough to rub again.</DI=
V>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>- the hub mounting bolt circle on these trailing arms don't appear to=
be=20
terribly far off, although I have noticed all the rubbing is on the front=
on=20
each side.</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>- I have been removing material from the interior of that tunnel with=
30=20
grit sanding sleeves on a 3 inch diameter 1 inch deep sanding drum on an=
air=20
drill. Silicon carbide sleeves for soft metals work really well without cl=
ogging=20
at all - unfortunately the reason the don't clog is that they abrade quick=
ly -=20
so I won't be doing any more until i get more sanding sleeves in tomorrow.=
</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>Cheers,</DIV>
<DIV>Jack Mc</DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV> </DIV>
<DIV>
<DIV>In a message dated 1/11/2015 11:08:34 P.M. Eastern Standard Time,=20
spamiam@comcast.net writes:</DIV>
<BLOCKQUOTE=20
style=3D"BORDER-LEFT: blue 2px solid; PADDING-LEFT: 5px; MARGIN-LEFT: 5px"=
><FONT=20
style=3D"BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" color=3D#000000 size=3D2 face=3D=
Arial>Jack,=20
<BR><BR>My bump stop dishes do not perfectly align with the bump stops,=
=20
including all the original shims<BR><BR>My car has had no frame damage,=
and I=20
think the shims are all original to the car. <BR><BR>I did/do have=
=20
trouble with clearance on the trailing arms. On the first one, dri=
vers=20
side (left), I had only a little interference and a little dremel carbid=
e burr=20
grinding did the job<BR><BR>The other side was/is a bit of a problem.&nb=
sp;=20
The original installation of the 6 studs was a bit off. You can se=
e that=20
the bottom stud is well centered, but all the rest are slightly out of=
=20
position, the circle is pivoted on that bottom stud by a little bit to=
the=20
right. This makes the left-most 2 studs excessively close to the=
inside=20
edge (slight perforation of the inner thin wall when drilling for=20
keenserts)<BR><BR>And it further reduces clearance on the right side by=
maybe=20
0.060". This means there is a LOT of interference. I<BR><BR>=
I=20
thought I had everything just barely clearing on the bench. I had=
the=20
hub bolted very snugly and no palpable or audible interference was=20
present. Mechanics blue showed no touching<BR><BR>So I installed=
the=20
axle and trailing arm which is a pain in the neck because the axle limit=
s=20
downward excursion. I got it all hooked up and all torqued except=
the=20
250ft-lb 1.25" nut. As I then turned the axle, I could just=
barely=20
hear and feel some interference! Then it went away, but if I shove=
d hard=20
on the hub, and twisted I could gets one real grinding. So=
I took=20
off the TA again and I need to hit it with a real die grinde=
r=20
tomorrow. <BR><BR>I only need to remove a little more metal, but=
I will=20
put some tape on the highest parts,: the clip and, oddly, the edge=
=20
closest to the wheel. The tape will make sure I have enough cleara=
nce,=20
more than just a thousandth. I don't want to remove much metal, bu=
t=20
I going to shoot for about 0.010 (3 thicknesses of masking=20
tape?)<BR><BR>I will need to be removing some metal from nearly 180 degr=
ees to=20
clear the clip, but only at the 3:00 position is it a significant amount=
.=20
<BR><BR>-Tony<BR><BR>Sent from my iPhone<BR><BR>On Jan 11, 2015, at 6:19=
PM,=20
Jack Mc <McGaheyRx@aol.com> wrote:<BR><BR>> Tony - <BR>> <BR=
>>=20
I am also installing GoodParts CV jointed axles on a IRS TR4A at the mom=
ent=20
and I found the same thing - I think there were 5 shims behind every bra=
cket,=20
plus a couple of non-original smaller shims that must have been added at=
some=20
point for alignment. I have remounted the trailing arms with no shims (f=
or=20
now) thinking I'd let the alignment shop sort out how many should be whe=
re,=20
but I have noticed the bump stop dish on the trailing arm on one side no=
=20
longer lines up with the bump stop on the body. <BR>> I haven't looke=
d into=20
that any further because I am distracted by a more immediate problem: <B=
R>>=20
The outer CV joint boot and boot clip are making contact with the traili=
ng arm=20
- I've never had this problem on the many TR6s I've done this to - so I=
=20
measured and found the tunnel in the TR4A trailing to be smaller than an=
y of=20
the TR6 trailing arms I have on hand - hard to quantify how much since=
these=20
tunnels taper, but looks like the TR4a trailing arm tunnels are a little=
over=20
0.1 inch smaller in internal diameter. Have you encountered this? <BR>&g=
t; As=20
an aside, there are quite a few subtle differences between the TR4a trai=
ling=20
arms and TR6 trailing arms - and the quality of casting looks better wit=
h the=20
TR4 trailing arms - the quality of casting got better during the TR6 mod=
el=20
run, but these TR4 arms make early TR6 trailing arms look crude by compa=
rison.=20
<BR>> <BR>> Cheers,<BR>> Jack=20
Mc</FONT></BLOCKQUOTE></DIV></FONT></BODY></HTML>
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