Dave,
I went through this exact same thing at the beginning of this summer. Gauge
was reading high, which it never has done in the 10 years I have owned my 72
TR6.
I initially was headed to the voltage stab. myself, but as in your case, my
fuel gauge was fine.
I ended up flushing the entire cooling system several times, until the brown
water coming out turned light brown.
I refilled with 50/50, put in some water wetter, and it went back to normal
right in the middle of hot and cold and I never had an issue all summer.
Just my experience.
Craig
On 11/30/14, Dave<dave1massey@cs.com> wrote:
I don't know your meter and I don't know if the readings are
significant of
anything. The Continuity test on most meters is good
for finding closed
contacts and wire connections. If you switch over
to Ohms you will get
readings with significance.
Presuming the numbers you are getting are KOhms
your values are not too
far off and I suspect your temp senders are OK. If
anything they may
be reading a bit high which would give you low readings,
not high. My
experience with thermistors is that when they go bad they go
open and
that is not the case here. And you are getting the same results
with
swapping out the senders and the gauges. So what is common among these
two setups? The voltage stabilizer for one. And the wiring. The wire
between the sender and the gauge can be bypassed with a couple of
jumpers.
The Voltage Stabilizer can be checked with the volt meter.
That would be my
next step.
Dave Massey
-----Original Message-----
From: dave n
<dave@ranteer.com>
here is what I did today. tried to document every
detail. looks to me
like
the sending unit is bad. both???
btw - fuel
gage seems to read fine
did I miss anything?
1 - replace the thermostat
2. started car with lots of choke; idling about 1500 rpm
3. gage starts out
pinned left; after a couple minutes it starts to
move
right
4. infrared
says temp of t stat housing is 112 and climbing
5. at 120 gage is vertical
6. turn off choke, rev engine; settles in at idle of 1200 or so, which
is
normal (engine is not stock!)
7. tstat housing temperature in the 125 to 130
range; gage is moving
right
8. after 5 to 10 minutes, gage has settled just
left of the red square
under
the letter H
9. temperature is now in the 150
to 160 range; gage has moved farther
right.
as the temperature passes 170
it [pins right
10. shut off car
11. set up secondary system - positive
terminal to voltage regulator,
vr is
grounded as it should be, then vr to
gage to sending unit
12. it still pins right. this is using separate gage,
separate
sending
unit, and completely independent of the cars wiring system
except the
battery and chassis
13. connected mulitmeter from positive
terminal to t stat housing and
to
temperature switch threads. both read
over 12 volts
14. old switch - which was in the car originally - I used the
continuity
tester - i get 0 when the two probes touch, 1 when one nothing is
connected
15. connecting through the old switch (cold) i get .588
16.
swapped original sending unit back in; car was still pretty warm
(off
except for power)
17. temp gage moved to almost full hot
18. disconnected
car wiring from sending unit; plugged in "external"
temp
gage system; also
read way right
19. temp sensor which was in there - measures 5.6 or so on the
continuity
tester cold
20. put it in boiling water - continuity tester
reads .13
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
|