If you break it off AND break off the easy-out, you bleed the system by
putting a tray under the wheel and loosening the break line until winter when
you take it all to a good machine shop. BTDT.
BILL
Sent from mobile Bill
On Sep 16, 2014, at 8:34 AM, "Pete Ryner" <pryner@verizon.net> wrote:
Use lots of penetrant and give it time to work. The bleeder is fairly soft
metal and will shear off easily. I just broke on on my TR3 a few weeks ago.
Definitely use a socket. Wouldn't hurt to put some PB in the inside of the
caliper to get to the bleeder from the other side. They normally stick
because of rust between the caliper and the bleeder. If you do break it off
it is still possible to remove the remainder so don't give up.
Pete
-----Original Message----- From: Geo Hahn
Sent: Tuesday, September 16, 2014 9:06 AM
To: JOSEPH MATO
Cc: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR-3 back brake bleeder screw removal(without breaking)
Some penetrant (like PBlaster) might be helpful. I use a six point socket
for the initial loosening if I am expecting trouble.
A mini-impact working of the wrench (as opposed to a heavy-handed turning)
can have better results.
Going forward, I think keeping rubber caps on the bleeders reduces the
chance of future problems.
Geo
> On Tue, Sep 16, 2014 at 2:30 AM, JOSEPH MATO <joemato@sbcglobal.net> wrote:
>
> I remember using a small torch to heat the screw up slightly red hot, then
> using a long wrench about 11 mm. Any other methods?
>
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