Bob,
I did a 72 a few years back.
I replaced:
Main and small end bearings.
Front and rear seal
Rings
Had the block hot tanked and cylinders honed. They had zero wear.
Head hot tanked and shaved a bit to insure it was flat, with new
hardened exhaust seats installed. Bronze valve guides. Valve job. Went
with original valves.
Crank just had the journals polished. All surfaces were at spec.
Steel front crank sealing block to replace the original aluminum one
which was stripped where the oil pan bolts attach.
Also:
Flywheel resurfaced.
Exhaust manifold jet hot coated.
Upgraded thrust washers from Wishbone.
Rebuilt distributor from Advanced with micro advance/retard added (like
on the 3 and 4)
Hitachi SU HS6 carburators from Paltech. (I am SU thru and thru) Didnt
want to have to learn ZS.
Had the cam journals polished. Did not add bearings.
Stayed with the original lifters, rockers, push rods.
great oil flow to the rockers.
Got a Justin Wagner valve cover gasket. But they are now NLA.
Electric fuel pump with regulator.
I just finished my 3rd season and the engine runs just great. Oil
pressure runs about 70PSI when hot at about 2K RPM. Drops to about 40 -
45 at idle.
Runs cool and sounds great with the Bell dual exhaust system.
Starts right up and idles at 700 RPM after warming up.
I have to say rebuilding a 6 engine seemed easier than the 3 or 4 engines.
Bob
On 11/03/2013 05:08 PM, Bob Rochlin wrote:
> Hi List, I'm contemplating rebuilding the engine of my 72' TR6 this
> winter. I am hoping the collective experience of the list can give me some
> guidance as to some of the decisions I'll have to make. I'm thinking of
> getting a cam just a little hotter then stock and shaving the head just a bit.
> I've been very happy with the performance of the original ZS carburetors and
> wonder of they are able to supply the increased fuel demands of the new set
> up. As far as I understand the jets are fixed. Speaking of cams, how
> necessary are cam bearings? Should I have them installed while I'm doing the
> rebuild? The engine runs very well, but bit doggie. I don't think that it's
> ever had any machine shop work done. I did a compression test about a year
> ago. The results were low of 85, hight of 120. A leak down test confirmed
> that almost all the lost compression was through the rings. The car burns
> almost no oil (it just leaks out a little) what other components should I
> replace as a matter of course during the rebuild? Anything I should look out
> for? I am long forward to hearing your advice. Take care. Bob
>
> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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