Thanks Randall,
I think that the master cylinder is good. I drove the car
about two weeks ago, before I had to remove the MC's. The brakes worked fine.
I was thinking of fabricating a positive pressure bleeder where I could
pressurize the master cylinder using a bug sprayer so I could do one man
bleeding. I wonder if this will work and if someone on the list has tried
this.
-Bill Brewer
________________________________
From: Randall
<TR3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: 'William Brewer' <wsb1960tr3a@att.net>; 'Triumphs'
<triumphs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Wednesday, September 11, 2013 12:20 AM
Subject: RE: [TR] Bleeding Hydraulics on a TR6
> I just wanted to verify
that you
> start at the
> bleeder farthest from the master cylinder first.
Shouldn't matter, you should be able to get fluid no matter where you bleed
first. The book does say to do the farthest cylinder
first, but I think it's
just to reduce the amount of bleeding required.
Sounds like you need to
bench-bleed the MC. You might be able to get it going by bleeding at the
outlet fittings while on the car.
> I was told that you
> could hook a
Mityvak up to the bleeder and vacuum pump the
> air out. It doesn't
> seem to
work. How does one use a Mityvac to bleed brakes?
That's the theory, didn't
work for me either. I think it was pulling air past the bleed screw threads,
instead of fluid from the
MC. BTW there is a reservoir that you are supposed
to use between the MityVac and the brakes; the pump doesn't like brake fluif.
> I am going to look for a one man bleeder tomorrow.
The Dorman "speed
bleeder" bleed valves worked a treat for me. But they won't help if you can't
get the MC to pump.
Randall
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