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Re: [TR] Compression check: what does this mean?

To: "'Randall'" <TR3driver@ca.rr.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Compression check: what does this mean?
From: "Ed Oot" <eoot@citlink.net>
Date: Tue, 23 Jul 2013 10:56:18 -0400
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: triumphs@autox.team.net
References: <001b01ce7fe4$5be490a0$13adb1e0$@citlink.net> <05.44.05415.5E881E15@cdptpa-omtalb.mail.rr.com>
Thread-index: AQGaQUMcREGIh9Z6V0mfiAQSfFux7Jna5Z4A
Thanks Randall and Jonmac.

What would be the next hotter plug to either the Champion L87YC or NGK
BP6HS?   Thought I would give that a try and see how comfortable I am
driving the car that way.  Took it out over the weekend and ran it up pretty
good then checked the plugs.  3 was a bit damp and 4, if anything, was a bit
on the lean side.

Thanks
Ed

-----Original Message-----
From: Randall [mailto:TR3driver@ca.rr.com] 
Sent: Saturday, July 13, 2013 1:06 PM
To: 'Ed Oot'; triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: RE: [TR] Compression check: what does this mean?

Well, for sure you have something wrong on #3.  With those results, it's
hard to say for certain just what; but the problem should become apparent
when you get the head off.  If there isn't anything obviously wrong with the
head (like oil caked on the back on the intake valve for #3, showing that
the oil was going past the valve stem) or obviously wrong with the #3
cylinder wall; then pull the #3 piston out and see what you find.

My guess is either broken ring, or scored cylinder wall.

However, 120 psi of compression should still let the engine run reasonably
well.  My guess is that the poor performance is mostly from the fouled plug.
So if you want to wait until after the driving season, just change the plug
(maybe to one step hotter to help avoid fouling again) and go on.

-- Randall 

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