Untreated ethanol-gasoline mixtures segregate over a few months. The
gasoline phase is deprived of the ethanol, lowering its octane. The ethanol
phase is hydroscopic, and in the presence of humid air, will absorb water,
which coalesces into blobs and sinks to the bottom of the tank, just where
the fuel tap is located. Our problem in the vintage car/bike world is that
we use them infrequently and often store them over the winter, when time and
humid air is working against us. Ethanol is not going away, so our solution
to the problem is to adopt the discipline used by other seasonal motorized
enthusiasts (boaters and skimobilers come to mind).
1. If you think there is ANY chance that the gas you are pumping into the
tank will remain there for more than 60 days, use a stabilizing additive.
2. When preparing the vehicle for winter storage, leave one-quarter tank of
stabilized fuel in the tank. This may be controversial, but I believe it
discourages rusting. I usually drain the bowls on the bikes because it is so
easy, and leave the TR3A bowls alone.
3. At spring start-up, drain a pint or so of fuel from the tanks (trivial if
you have an electric fuel pump) into a transparent container and check for
water blobs and debris. Repeat this step until the fuel is clear. Decant and
then filter the extracted fuel with a paper filter and pour it into your
family car. Fill the tank with fresh fuel (with an additive if step 1
applies) and enjoy the season.
My vehicles are stored untouched for 7 months each winter, in a dry garage
but with nearly constant rain outside. Since using StaBil three years ago in
the fall, my fuel at spring start-up tests clear, with no water
contamination.
Rick in Seattle
1960 TR3A
1970 BSA 441 Victor Special
1975 Norton Commando 850 Mk3
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