My long-suffering TR4A came to me with a replacement mechanical fuel pump and a
pretty bodged engine-compartment plumbing setup. One of the first tasks I
undertook was to recreate the hard lines per the manual (I couldn't find a
source for the pre-made parts).
Then I got to discover what many other TR4A owners had learned: the factory
setup leads to vapor lock and hard starting when hot, because the fuel line is
in the primary heat soak area above and behind the radiator.
And then I experience the classic fuel pump failure, where the cross-shaft
comes out and lets the actuating arm drop into the sump. That was way too much
fun. Lucky for me, no damage was done.
The Competition Prep manual suggested mounting the electric fuel pump in the
driver's side rear wheel well, which I did: I put a cylindrical Facet pump on
the vertical panel that rises up from the floor to the rear bench, using the
rubber mounts. I used as much of the original on-frame plumbing as possible; I
installed a toggle switch under the steering column as a kill switch and an
in-line fuse.
I think that locating the pump near the fuel tank is a good idea, because these
pumps really do push better than they pull. I had some experience with these
pumps from my GT6+, and I decided that I wanted a filter and regulator. I was
also flirting with Italian cars at that time, and they tended to have electric
pumps in the rear with a FISPA filter/regulator in the engine compartment. So I
mounted one of those on a blanking plate where the original mechanical pump was!
I also took this opportunity to run the fuel line to the carbs behind the
engine, away from the radiator.
This part of the car, at least, has not given me any trouble since :-)
chris
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