In my experience, the jets do wear with the spring loaded needles. Volvo
even made a tool to move the jet in the body; it replaced the plug below
the jet and screwed into the threads in the main body. It would push the jet
up in a controlled manor, but the location needs to be exact, and be
measured by the proper exhaust mixture. Even a new adjustable needle often
has
too little range to deal with jet wear alone.
Much lost time and spilled fuel over adjusting an early carb, let alone
most SUs.
TR Regards
Hardy
In a message dated 3/12/2013 11:01:45 A.M. Pacific Daylight Time,
triumphs-request@autox.team.net writes:
From: Randall <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
To: Triumphs <triumphs@autox.team.net>, Frank Fisher
<yellowtr3@yahoo.com>
Subject: Re: [TR] TR6 carb neadles
> got new jets but no new needle. what
> the heck?
That's so you can substitute the B1E needles that supposedly work better
with E10 (according to Joe Curto).
> first how do you get that jet out?
This will sound somewhat heretical, but what about just leaving the jet
alone? Unlike the earlier fixed needle carbs, the jets rarely wear on the
later carbs with the spring-loaded needles.
As noted, it is pressed into place. Some simple mandrels are called for,
you probably don't want to put pressure on the entire carb body. And there
is no positive location for position (even though the position is somewhat
critical), so be sure to measure the old position and duplicate it.
> how do you get the needle out?
Read the excellent series of articles on how to rebuild ZS carbs at
http://www.buckeyetriumphs.org/technical/technical.htm
> and the needle was wobbly. you could push it
> sideways a little. is that normal? yes we had the little grub screw
screwed in
> and the little brass collar turned so the slot lined up with the grub
screw..
>
> also we could pull the needle down and it would pop back in like its on a
> spring. is that normal?
Yes, and yes. Obviously you don't want to pull too hard as the spring is
what locates the needle in normal operation.
--- Randall
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