Tim,
Please, please do not depend on cinder blocks to save your life. They will
crumble under the weight of the car. Jack stands work, cinder blocks don't.
Thanks,
Craig
1972 Triumph TR6
On 02/10/12, Tim Gaines<mtgaines@presby.edu> wrote:
Well, I certainly wouldn't get under or reach far under the car while
jacking no matter where the jack is placed. My floor jack handle
reaches to the side and lets me pump it without being underneath,
though I have to admit there is little range of motion at
first. Those rails are close, and I've never had a hint that the
board (a sturdy one of course) was close to failing; no creaks or
cracks. The fact that the car goes straight up means that the front
stands, already in place, don't tip to the side at all. That was
something that always scared me. Believe me, when I contemplate
going underneath my car, I have a healthy fear. I don't rely on just
the jack stands either. I slide cinder blocks underneath once the
stands are set.
Tim
>wow - you jack your car up on a 2x6 bridging the frame rails? Seems a
>little light to me - please be careful.
>
>On Fri, Feb 10, 2012 at 12:52 PM, Tim Gaines <mtgaines@presby.edu> wrote:
> > I do the same, with a 2X6 about 16" long. My exhaust hangs down just below
> > the level of the rails, so I also add a short 2X4 under each rail to bridge
> > the exhaust. It works well, and as Dave says, the car goes up evenly. So,
> > one lift at the front cross and one in the back with a temporary cross.
> >
> > Tim
> >
> >> The two frame rails come pretty close together at the T-shirt area so you
> >> can lift there setting the jack under one of the rails. But that is a
> >> little
> >> bit unstable. I use a 2X4 to span the gap and up it goes. But with the
> >> jack lifting from the side the car wants to move sideways on the front
> >> stands
> >> so I lift in stages and square things up once it is up.
> >>
> >> Dave
> >>
> >> ** triumphs@autox.team.net **
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