> My thoughts are that the two issues are related; that my lack of power
> is
> somehow electrical, not mechanical.
> I believe this because it happened so soon after the starter was found
> to be shorted.
Well, a shorted starter would place an unusual load on the battery cables,
including the ground strap(s). So I would give them a quick visual. Last
time I had a shorted starter, the hot cable melted its insulation and smoked
so much that I thought the engine was on fire. You might also double-check
the battery, as the heavy load will have shortened its life somewhat and may
have pushed it over the edge, so to speak.
Other than that, while the power problem might well be electrical, I expect
it is just coincidence that it happened the same day as the starter problem.
> Also, what's some opinion on rebuilding the starter, versus replacing?
> Does anyone have any experience with the fancy "gear reduction
> starter"?
Not the same starter, but I finally got frustrated with rebuilding my early
TR3A starter and converted to a gear-drive. That was in 2001, and I still
haven't regretted the decision (the same starter is now in my TR3). I also
used to run a really big (100 AH) battery to help cover the current draw of
the original starter; now I use a much smaller (lighter and less expensive)
battery and it works just fine.
I used a somewhat different wiring setup than most do for the new starter.
The original solenoid is still in place, but it supplies power only to
engage the new solenoid on the new starter. That way the old solenoid
(which was likely somewhat damaged from the shorted starter) doesn't have to
carry full starter current, but I can still use the pushbutton on the back
of the original solenoid. And, the dash switch does not have to carry the
increased current drawn by the new solenoid (measured at about 12 amps vs
about 2 amps for the old solenoid).
-- Randall
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