I am 6'- 2" + and had been through this 2- or 3 - point seatbelt
dilemma too, until a physical therapist friend convinced me to change
my lap belts to a 3 point set. His point was that he much rather have
his neck and/or shoulder tweaked than being slammed into that TR3
steering hub. One theory presented by someone else was , that the
typical reaction ,when anticipating a head collision, would be to push
hard on the brakes with the right foot, thus somewhat twisting your
body counter clockwise and dropping the left shoulder which would
minimize injury; true or not, the 3-point, though not ideal, is still
far safer than the 2-point option. Clearly, the best way is a
properly engineered roll bar with the higher attachment, or better
yet, a 4-point racing harness.
To obtain the highest possible point with the retractor the farthest
away from my shoulder, and thus minimizing the pull-down force vector,
I bolted the retractors on top of the wheel housing under fender top;
i.e. they are bolted between the "rear seat" panel and the trunk back
panel each side of the fuel tank. I found that there was enough of a
gap between the wheel housing top and the "rear seat" panel for the
belt to slide through easily. If you are interested, I 'll gladly
post some pics of the details.
Hans
On Sep 7, 2011, at 4:36 PM, P Caffrey wrote:
> Thanks, Jerry....My outer belt connects on the upper part of the wheel
> housing, about 6 1/2 inches from the rear panel. The other part of
> the belt is
> anchored a little forward of the wheel housing base....At 6'3" the
> upper part
> of the belt is definately lower than my neck....Perhaps I should
> just go with
> lap belts.Pat >If a TR4A the outer belts do connect at a point low
> on the
> wheel housing. 3
>> Points would connect up higher but be careful and follow instructions
>> closely as that 3rd point for a shoulder belt I believe needs to be
>> higher
>> than ones neck. Tough to do on a TR.
>
>> triumphs at autox.team.net
>>
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>
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