I'm a little late with thoughts on this one but here's my input......I
think you may have two issues....1) the fuse block and 2) the blower motor.
Fuse Block - while they are not cheap to buy, they aren't terribly
expensive either and the amount of grief and turmoil that an old fuse block can
cause is, in my experience, just not worth saving a few bucks and getting
out the sandpaper when things go screwy.
Blower Motor - since your trouble initially began when you turned the
blower motor on during a rain storm, the culprit may have been (or still is) a
blower motor that is pulling too much current when it operates (regardless
of whether it's raining or not).
One quick way to prove this would be to remove the fuse from the white
wire/green wire fuse slot and connect an ammeter in place of the fuse. Start
the car (or turn the ignition to "on") and operate the blower motor. Dan
Masters states on page 26 of his Electrical Maintenance Handbook that the
"green fuse" (the fuse between the white wire and green wires) should see a
total of 16.7 amps when every load on that circuit is on or working. In
particular, he says that the blower motor should draw 4 amps when working.
Given that the temp & fuel gauge will draw about .4 amp when you turn the
ignition on, the blower should add another 4 amps when you turn it on. If the
blower motor is drawing significantly more than 4 amps, you've got at
least one culprit. The fuse block may still be partly at fault; a heavy
current draw from the blower may just be the trigger.
The only way to really get to the blower motor is to remove the heater box
which is really a pain! I think I'd try to find a simple cause for the
high current draw like bad ground, crossed up wires...heck, maybe the problem
is in the blower switch??
Good luck,
Chip Krout
Delaware Valley Triumphs, Ltd.
Skippack, PA
1976 TR6 CF57822U
In a message dated 8/9/2011 12:11:32 P.M. Eastern Daylight Time,
soknacki@soknacki.com writes:
When I turned on the
blower, I lost power
triumphs@autox.team.net
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