Let me chime in on arp studs. Also, you should have no problems with the
stripped threads. Use stainless and never look back.
Best,
R
?Life is tough. It's even tougher if you' re stupid."
-John Wayne
wbeech at flash.net wrote:
>John,
>
>I broke a stud last year, put a nice dimple on the bonnet, and all the
>recommendations that came to me were for the ARP studs. Bought a set for
>about $100US on eBay and they installed perfectly with no issues. Have only
>had the chance to drive a few miles this year so I cannot speak to long-term
>use but only that these seem to be the preferred product for the
>high-performance guys and the cost was less than the regular suppliers.
>
>Regarding the corrosion issue, I would probably give the Moss, UK folks a
>ring and see what they say.
>
>BTW, it does not appear for it to be uncommon for some coolant to get into
>the stud holes whilst removing the head, I too had this but no signs of
>leaking since.
>
>All the best,
>Bill
>
>-----Original Message-----
>From: triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net
>[mailto:triumphs-bounces at autox.team.net] On Behalf Of John Gillis
>Sent: Sunday, May 08, 2011 11:53 AM
>To: triumphs at Autox.Team.Net
>Subject: [TR] head studs issue
>
>With the TR2 engine out and head off, I decided to remove one of the studs
>where I had seen water bubbling up while the engine was running, I
>discovered water/liquid in the bottom of the stud hole, removed them all and
>the same in all. Cleaned them out copper grease on the thread and put them
>back, I guess it is OK to use copper grease here? The worrying issue is the
>amount of corrosion on two of the studs, at the top of the thread (block
>end) These are new studs from Moss UK, and remembering this engine has not
>run more than a mile and some stationary running in the garage. This is
>clearly a quality issue, not for the first time when buying from the "big
>boys". Can anybody tell me where I might buy some GOOD QUALITY studs.
>Regards
>John
>1954 TR2
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