Bob and Jerry
Thanks for your quick replies.
The bar as Jerry describes his is probably not going to work for me. My tow
loops on the front of the frame are filled with my front sway bar. I
managed to thread the bar through the loops, and it fits really well that
way. I did not have to cut the loops as some have done.
As Jerry says, if lights are mounted on his bar in the upright position,
then they will interfere with the hood. For those who didn't see his photo
that he sent me, the bar comes up from below the bumper, and bends around in
front of the bumper just inboard of the overriders, and extends probably 3"
or 4" above the bumper.
If I had to fabricate brackets, What I had envisioned was a bracket that
bolts to the frame with the bumper mounts, then comes up behind the bumper,
then extends a little above the top of the bumper. At that point a 3/4"
stainless or chrome tube is mounted transversely. On that tube the lights
are mounted. Hopefully the clamps to the tube would hold securely enough
that they will not twist on the tube, and the whole thing will be reasonably
rigid to minimize vibration.
Probably any commercial bar that would allow fitting lights would have to be
positioned in the same general place.
-Tony
-----Original Message-----
From: Bob
Sent: Saturday, April 02, 2011 9:44 AM
To: triumphs at autox.team.net
Cc: spamiam at comcast.net
Subject: Re: [TR] TR4A badge bar
On Saturday, April 02, 2011 09:03:00 am spamiam at comcast.net wrote:
> I am thinking of adding driving lights to my TR4A. Due to the hood
> tipping
> forward, clearance is a real issue. Positioning needs to be pretty tight
> to the grille so they won?t interfere with the hood.
>
> I have not seen any commercial badge bars to which I might mount the
> lights. Since the lights are heavier than badges, the bar would need to
> be pretty stable, too. I saw that Moss sells clamps for stem-mount lights
> and the clamps fit a 3/4? diameter bar. So, I am looking for a 3/4?
> diameter bar.
>
> Any suggestions?
>
> Alternatively, I might be able to fabricate my own bar and custom arms
> which would piggyback to the bumper mounts. I see that 3/4? 304 stainless
> 16 gauge tube stock is not terribly expensive. That would be a
> possibility, but I did not find any end caps that would be suitable. Any
> suggestions on this approach? Source for end caps that do not rely on a
> pipe thread?
>
> -Tony
Tony,
I was in the same boat with my 63 4. I tried to get the bar to attach
between
the two over-riders but the bonnet would hit the bar when opened.
So I decided to fabricate a set of mounts that allowed me to install a 3/4
inch chrome bar between the over-riders. The mounts attach to the license
plate holes in the front and are made of 1/4 " bar steel and I had to add a
set of mounts that act as a clamp to the rear to add stability. I made them
so
when I tightened them to the front bar mount they would clamp to the top
rear
of the bumper.
In order to prevent scraping and scratching of the bumper I sprayed some of
that plastic tool prep called "Plastic Dip" on the insides.
If you want a photo or 2 let me know.
The badge bar supports a fog and driving lamp plus the autox badge.
Bob
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