Speaking of U-Joints, I noticed that TRF has the Hardy-Spicer U-Joint on
sale in their latest offering for $16.92.
NFI
Bill
-----Original Message-----
From: triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net
[mailto:triumphs-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Dave1massey@cs.com
Sent: Friday, December 31, 2010 2:06 PM
To: triumphs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [TR] u-joint
In a message dated 12/31/2010 2:58:23 PM Central Standard Time,
spamiam@comcast.net writes:
> They can be a bugger to get apart. The corrosion prevents the caps
> from moving. As a previous reply said, clean the corrosion so the cap
> will slide. The instructions say that gentle tapping is all that is
> necessary to get the caps to move. Well, it usually takes a BFH. You
> need to be aware
>
> that wailing on the U-joint may well bend the yoke(s) and make the
> holes for the caps no longer perfectly aligned.
I prefer to use an hydraulic press. Failing that a vice will do. Select a
couple sockets, one that is slightly smaller than the cap to pressthe T
through the yoke and another large enough to accept the other cap to back
up the other side of the yoke.
But whether you use a vice or a press, great care must be taken as either
one can apply enough force to deform or break the yoke. Use good judgement
and if things don't move with a reasonable amount of force stop and check
out the situation. Things may not be stright or rust or some other unwanted
substance (like a C-ring) may be causing problems.
But after the last time I did this and had to take them back apart because
one of the rollers fell out of place I decided to take my driveshafts to
experts and have them done. Saves me the agrivation.
Dave
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