> I'm a little reluctant to take off the hinges as the modern
> replacements (mine
> are) just strip threads even by looking at them.
When I get new hinges, I remove the studs and carefully run a bottoming tap
into the threads. Clean the threads with solvent, then replace the studs
just slightly more than finger tight with a few drops of high strength
Loctite. I've not had any stripped threads since I started following this
procedure.
But the old hinges were looking pretty tired anyway, so I replaced them as
well when I installed the luggage rack.
> how tough was it to get the hinge pins out?
I may have made it tougher than it needs to be. I was worried about
breaking off the 'ear' of the hinge, so I made a wedge from a flat washer to
tap into the joint first. After that, the pins came out easily with a pin
punch and hammer, using my bench vise as backup. I don't think doing this
on the car would be a good idea, though.
> is the bolt for the rack the same diameter as the hinge pin
> or do i need to
> drill out the hinge?
As I recall, one side was slightly tight and the other slightly loose.
Anyway, I didn't drill anything and the new pins went in fine using the vise
as a press. But later, when I removed the rack and left the threaded pins
in the hinges, one of them fell out somewhere on the road.
Some kind person on this list sent me a replacement, but I'm ashamed to
admit that I have forgotten who it was.
Note that the rubber feet supplied (at least the ones I got from TRF) will
leave marks in the paint. I had visible circles after having the rack
installed for just 2 weeks. A piece of Saranwrap might help, or I believe
FT machined new feet from Delrin or something.
-- Randall
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