Any softer wood should work fine for that application, pine, fir or alder if
it were my car. Easy to trim and fit into that slot and will hold those tack
firm, there isn't any real stress there.
Mobile Bill
On Oct 11, 2010, at 6:44 AM, "Carl TR" <cfmtr3a@verizon.net> wrote:
> What is the consensus on replacing the B-post tacking strip? What came out
of mine looked like twisted paper.
>
> Scott - you said you used wood. Do you have the dimensions?
>
> I was thinking about using (I don't know what it is called) that marine
plyboard-like stuff. It is a soft plastic. (may use it for tacking strip at
the base of the seats as well). Of course, I haven't gone looking for it yet.
>
> Suggestions appreciated....
>
> Carl
>
> ----- Original Message -----
>> I think you will find it easier to install the rear side panels before you
>> install the rear panel that covers the tank. What I did was to measure
the
>> holes and approximate their location on the panel, then using a small hole
>> cutting knife from my x-acto set I cut the hole through the vinyl and the
>> padding, this helps to prevent the padding from being wound in the drill
bit
>> when you drill a pilot hole and then the screw when you put it in. I
know
>> that I probably missed the original holes but some fraction of an inch but
>> as long as they were equal on both sides of the car the appearance was not
>> affected.
>>
>> The strip of 'wood' along the "B" post is to tack the fuzzy draft blocker
>> into place, you should screw into the metal that is just aft of this.
>>
>> Good luck,
>> Bill Beecher
>> '
>> -----Original Message-----
>> I was able to install the inner wheel well covers on my TR3A this weekend
>> with good results. The next step after installing the rear panel that
covers
>> the gas tank, and the rear cappings, is the two side panels. I can see the
>> holes that the finishing screws go into on the body, and the holes on the
>> capings,that line up with these but the interior panels do not have any
>> holes except for the two large holes for the screws to go through that
>> secure the top bow. I thought I could put the screws in and put a touch of
>> paint on the heads (taping them first) and then push the panel in place to
>> mark the location of the holes, then punch through using an awl. Also, I
>> assume that the B post that has the strip of wood also takes some screws,
>> but without the holes in the panel, and none on the wood (I had to replace
>> these as the originals were roted out), I am not sure where these would
go.
>> Any thoughts from those that have BTDT on how to get these holes marked
>> correctly so that all line up properely? TIA
>>
>> Scott Suhring
>> Mechanicsburg, PA
>> '70 TR6
>> '59 TR3A
>
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