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Re: [TR] Electrical diagnosis, please!

To: <KingsCreekTrees@aol.com>, <triumphs@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: [TR] Electrical diagnosis, please!
From: "Randall" <tr3driver@ca.rr.com>
Date: Sun, 13 Jun 2010 21:24:56 -0700
> I checked battery connections: OK. 
 
How exactly did you check them?  I've seen a lot of battery post connections
that looked fine, but didn't actually conduct enough current to crank an
engine.  My first reaction, given your description, would be to remove both
clamps and use a wire brush to expose fresh, shiny (should be almost white,
not gray) lead on both posts and clamps.  If you are using the more modern
pinch-type clamps, also remove the bolt and make sure the nut turns freely
on it past where it meets the clamp.  (I'm not sure what the equivalent
operation would be on the original "helmet" clamps as I've never used
those.)  Then reinstall and tighten firmly.

Any auto parts store should have a purpose-made wire brush for just a few
dollars/quid.
http://tinyurl.com/25z48s3

You mentioned that you own a multi-meter.  Next step would be to turn on the
headlights and start tracing along the circuit, to find where the voltage
disappears.  Start right at the battery posts (or as close as you can get).
If you don't find 12v with the headlights on, the battery is bad or
discharged.  Charge it and try again, if it is still low (even 10v), replace
the battery.

Once you've got 12v at the battery, check from the hot post of the battery
to a good ground point (like the 'E' terminal on the voltage regulator).  If
the voltage is now significantly lower, there is a bad connection somewhere
between the battery ground terminal, and the 'E' terminal on the regulator.
Hunt that down and fix it.

Now check from 'E' to the hot (top) terminal on the starter solenoid.  Same
story, if the voltage went away (or just went down more than 0.1 volt),
there is a bad connection somewhere between the battery post and the
solenoid post.  Stop and fix that before you continue.

Now check from 'E' to 'A1'.  And so on, until you pass the point where the
voltage drops to nearly nothing.  Write back and we'll go from there.

Here is a good photo (graciously supplied by Don Elliott) of the body/engine
ground strap:
http://tinyurl.com/2ek8k3y
Obviously, some things have been removed in that photo, for clarity.

Randall

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