> Have any of you used HS's folding tow bar?
I've not used that particular one, but I have a similar bar from Reese. I
used it exactly once to move my TR3A, and wished I hadn't. It puts a great
deal of force into the front end of the car, in a location not particularly
designed to take it. I bolted it on in place of the front bumper (no way is
the bumper blade strong enough, IMO), and the frame extensions flexed so
much that it tore up the fresh paint, and damaged the sheet metal.
15 miles is probably OK, but note that you should disconnect the driveshaft
when flat towing over longer distances. The gearbox relies on splash
lubrication from the countershaft, but the countershaft doesn't turn when
towing in neutral. If the bearing between the input and main shafts gets
hot, it may dramatically shorten the life of the mainshaft even if it
doesn't seize outright
> What other recommendations do you
> have for moving it?
A 2-wheel tow dolly from U-Haul worked well for me, and saved a few $$ over
the full trailer. But the trailer is still preferable, IMO, especially if
the tires, suspension, etc. are in unknown condition. It also avoids having
to disconnect the driveshaft (which is still necessary with the dolly).
Note that your DMV may be willing to give you a 'one day pass', to allow
bringing the car in for inspection under it's own power.
Another thought, you might make contact with the local club and see if
anyone has a trailer or tow dolly available for use.
Yet another, try talking to a local independent tow operator. If business
is slow and you can schedule in advance, he may give you a bargain rate on a
flatbed.
Randall
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