> Yes parts manual shows 2 shims
Two different sizes (.004 & .006), but both are listed "as required".
> so I though maybe installing
> an extra 1
> or 2 might get the lower gear out of it's little wear channel without
> miss-aligning the timing chain too much.
Seems to me that would be even worse, since now the front edge of the gear
is sitting higher than the rest.
> As I don't see a split link to break the chain I'm assuming
> the cam gear
> comes off to remove the crank gear? (manual's not clear).
That's right.
> Oddly enough the alignment marks don't look aligned, not sure
> whether I
> should leave well enough alone or move the crank a tooth worth.
I wouldn't trust any marks. If you want to check/adjust the valve timing,
IMO you should go through the whole megilla of finding TDC on the crank and
TDC on the cam, so you can compare the two. A whole tooth off would be
pretty noticeable (it's adjustable in 1/4 tooth increments), so if the
engine ran OK before, it's probably right.
> There may be some of that but there's a definite channel the
> gear falls into when the play increases.
Well, then the best approach is probably to pull the crank and have it
repaired/replaced. But if you don't mind the thought of having to deal with
it again in a few years, a new gear & key plus some Loctite should get you
by for awhile. When I had the front hub problem, my intention was to only
run that engine for another year or two, while I found time, money &
inclination to build a fresh motor. That was around 1992 or so, and that
'temporary' fix was still working fine when the car was wrecked in 2004.
The Loctite I used was RC609 (still have the bottle, as I had to buy 50ml of
it), but 660 might be a better choice.
http://tinyurl.com/y9fpsum
Randall
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