Hey Group!
I took some major time off the TR3 for family stuff, but am now ready to
refocus on the LBC. Unfortunately, a little bit of rust settled on my rebuilt
TR3 steering box, so I flushed it with 'Painter's Clean-up' (weak mineral
spirits?). I guess that won't hurt anything?
Yes, I rebuilt the box with new seals,both upper and lower ball bearings
and had a machinist press in a new peg. Last spring (I think) I used the two
pinch bolts to install the rebuilt arm and box. Steering wheel and shaft,
etc.
Today, I refitted the 4-bolt end plate using the original shims. All
togather they might have been an 1/16th to 1/8" thick (accompanied by 2 paper
gaskets). I did a trial fit first, rotating the steering wheel in order for
the two bearings to properly seat themselves in the bearing races.
Unfortunately, my car is off the ground with nothing touching the front
wheels and so the following technique may need to be repeated w/ the car on
the ground.
The first adjustment that I had read about pertained to the number of
shims. I was frustrated to find out that the arm was giving me a little too
much resistance, so I decided 'not to do the adjustment according to the
book' and see where it got me since I can undo any harm I cause.
Common sense told me that the peg and arm control the lateral movement.
So, I pulled the peg out of the worm so that I could feel 'just a tad' of
resistance to turning of the steering wheel via the steering shaft only. I
reinstalled the same shims as always, and with the lid off the top of the s.
box I paid particular attention to both bearings seating squarely in their
races. This meant the steering wheel had to be turned several times. My guess
is that with everything installed properly (exceept lowering the arm and peg)
and with the end-plate tightened good so that both lower and upper ball
bearings can barely be seen to be rotating With steering wheel turns.
Thankfully, this situation produced only a 'tad' of resistance to turning the
steering wheel. I feel this 'by the seat of the pants' type of end play
adjustment will proably be ok till I can measure end float with some sort of
gauge. It's suppose to be less than 1/10th".
Heck, maybe I can bypass the use of this end-float gauge? Any comments?
Thanks,
Paul Dorsey 60 TR3
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