> I have the
> distributor positioned so the test light goes on per the
> Bently manual.
That's odd. Mine says to turn the distributor until the light just goes
out. Step 5, section 86.35.15, page 520. It does depend on how the light
is connected, but the diagram in the Bentley shows it connected so it will
go out just at the point where the spark occurs.
When you find the right point, it's OK if the rotor is just slightly to the
#5 side of the #1 post, but it should definitely be closer to #1. If not,
you probably should reposition the cam gear.
> Should I expect to turn the distributor once it starts to
> "tweek" the timing?
Static timing should get you plenty close enough to run in the cam. But it
would be best to recheck with a timing light, later on. Note that the
directions in the Bentley for dynamic timing are WRONG. To obtain the given
"at idle" timing of 4 ATDC, the vacuum retard should be connected and
operating. If you disconnect the retard per the book (or it doesn't work),
then the timing should be set to the "static" figure (at the given idle
rpm). There is supposed to be an emissions tag under the hood with the
correct instructions and a note to the effect that they replace all other
instructions (but the tag is usually missing).
> Does anyone have a check list for intial start-up?
I like to spin them on the starter, with the plugs still out & the hot wire
off the coil, until the oil pressure comes up. Also gives you a chance to
check for gross oil leaks (like the oil filter you forgot to install). Then
put the plugs in, connect the ignition, double-check the oil and water
levels; and fire it up. While you are running in the cam, check again for
any leaks and of course keep an eye on the temp gauge. Since I don't have a
lot of faith in factory gauges (especially electric ones), I also feel the
hoses and radiator to determine when the thermostat opens, and compare that
with the gauge.
Randall
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