Thanks Tom, I feel better now.
I already have the master cylinder on the car with the internals just wet
with fluid.
I have all new brake lines/hoses, if I just fill the M/C resevoir with fluid
and pump
the pedal keeping an eye on the levels in the resevoir so as not to let air
in, and bleed
one wheel at a time.
Won't this fill the master cylinder and all the lines?
Wayne
----- Original Message -----
From: "Tom Householder" <trhouse@columbus.rr.com>
To: "Wayne" <rengrave@verizon.net>
Sent: Sunday, September 06, 2009 10:40 AM
Subject: Re: [TR] Master Cylinder rebuild question
> You should fill the master cylinder before you try to bleed the system
> eliminating as much air as possible, the seals will wear in
> and the hydraulics will overcome the resistance
>
> tom
>
> On Sep 6, 2009, at 10:14 AM, Wayne wrote:
>
>> I just finished rebuilding my master cylinder on my 73 TR6 last night.
>> I honed the bore to get rid of a few inperfections and endded up with a
>> pretty
>> good
>> bore, not mirror finish but smooth.
>> I used TRF rebuild kit and after I installed the pistons with the new
>> seals
>> the pistons
>> did not slide out on their own with the tension of the springs.
>> I coated the bore with DOT 4 brake fluid but I had to tap the master
>> cylinder
>> housing
>> on the bench to get the pistons to return to the front of the bore.
>>
>> Is this normal?
>> Should the springs return the pistons back to the front (servo side) of
>> the
>> bore with the
>> master cylinder on the bench?
>> Will it work OK once the cylinder is full of fluid and the hydraulic
>> pressure
>> will cause the
>> pistons to fine their location in the bore?
>> Is it because the seals are new and tight and they will wear in?
>>
>>
>> Wayne
>> 73 TR6
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