> The ID of the bushing is .515", the shaft is .5".
> Is this to sloppy?
Sounds kind of loose to me; but I don't have one handy to check.
> Should it also be loose on the gearbox shaft?
Yes, there should be some clearance to the shaft.
> This bushing is only a guide to keep the gearbox shaft centered for the
> clutch, correct?
Well, yeah, but there can be significant side-loading on that shaft in lower
gears.
> I have a new "magic clutch kit" I'm installing and was just wondering if I
> should buy another bushing?
Seems like a good idea to me; especially if you've had clutch problems in
the past.
Note that the bearing(s) used in the 'Magic' kit is stiffer than the stock
bearing and will frequently slip against the pressure plate (resulting in
premature wear and sometimes horrible squealing noises) unless additional
modifications are made. See
http://tinyurl.com/nkl4no
for more info.
Also, make sure the "dowel bolts" are present and not substituted with
ordinary bolts. They should have shanks long enough to penetrate most of
the way through both the bellhousing and rear plate; and the shanks should
fit very snugly in the holes. Ordinary bolts have undersize shanks (for
easy insertion) and will not properly hold the transmission in line with the
engine.
It's been stated that suitable precision-shank bolts are available from
aircraft suppliers, but I made my own from 3/8" drill rod; cut to length and
tapped for nuts on both sides. Others have substituted ordinary dowels, but
my feeling is that the factory must have had a good reason for the switch
(earlier TRs did use dowels).
> Also the clutch contact surface on the flywheel is rusty,
If it is just light surface rust, and the surface is in good condition
otherwise (no grooves or cracks) then I would just install it. You can sand
off the rust if you want, but it will get polished anyway, the first time
you use the clutch.
But if there is significant pitting or wear, then it would probably be best
to have it resurfaced at a machine shop.
Randall
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